访丝绸古镇 织合作愿景
——中国—东盟纺织服装发展研讨会暨东盟旅游购物节侧记

□ 文/本刊实习记者 林芊芊

访丝绸古镇 织合作愿景
——中国—东盟纺织服装发展研讨会暨东盟旅游购物节侧记

□ 文/本刊实习记者 林芊芊

四月春风轻拂面，丝绸古镇迎客来。4月26～27日，中国—东盟纺织服装发展研讨会暨东盟旅游购物节（以下简称“纺织节”）在苏州盛泽东方纺织城举行。来自文莱、柬埔寨、印尼、老挝、马来西亚、菲律宾、泰国、越南等8个东盟国家100多位纺织服装行业大咖和采购商参加本次活动。

这些远道而来的朋友，在本次纺织节上共话中国—东盟服装行业的发展与趋势。通过产品推介+供需交流的互动，纺织节将为东盟客商提供实地参观、自由采购、一对一洽谈的机会；为盛泽本地市场的供货商提供产品“走出去”的契机。

本次活动期间，中青旅丝绸文化旅游合作基地、C ASTPP中国—东盟纺织服装合作基地揭牌成立。此次活动由中国—东盟中小企业贸易促进平台（CASTPP）等单位主办，《中国—东盟博览》杂志社、盛泽东方纺织城承办，旨在搭建平台，促进中国—东盟纺织服装产业发展，带动中国—东盟纺织服装产业的国际合作与交流。

盛会：供需对接，创造更大价值

在4月26日上午举行的纺织节开幕式上，中国驻泰国前大使管木就中国—东盟友好合作进行了发言。

东盟采购商代表、马来西亚拿督黄汉良也在发言中表达了各国纺织服装同业为探索新出路而进行优势互补，建立利益共同体，拥抱“一带一路”的合作意愿。开幕式上还进行了盛泽东方纺织城—同程旅游战略合作签约仪式、旅游大巴首发仪式、旅游购物节启动仪式，以及时尚丝绸服装走秀。同时，中青旅丝绸文化旅游合作基地、CASTPP中国—东盟纺织服装合作基地正式揭牌成立。来自东盟各国的嘉宾代表和采购商、下游市场采购商、盛泽纺织业商家代表、旅游首发团游客、活动主办方相关负责人等出席了开幕式。

26日下午，中国—东盟纺织服装发展研讨会暨面料采购对接会召开。来自东盟各国纺织服装业的商会协会代表及采购商在听取了盛泽纺织产业发展情况介绍后，纷纷发表演讲，阐述各自国家纺织服装业的市场现状和格局需求，并就东盟国家的纺织服装业发展前景、优势互补等问题进行研讨。会上活动主办方还推介了盛泽纺织业特色产品，为东盟客人提供与商家面对面贸洽供需的机会。

4月27日，东盟各国嘉宾代表和采购商一行前往盛泽镇大型纺企工厂盛虹集团、福华织造实地考察。当天下午举行的意向采购协议签订仪式上，9位东盟客商作为代表，与盛泽东方纺织城的优质商家完成了集体签约。在两天的贸洽活动中，已经有数十家企业在盛泽东方纺织城达成采购意向。

据悉，此次活动依托盛泽作为纺织面料产地市场的优势，以及CASTPP、《中国—东盟博览》杂志社搭建国际化合作平台的资源与经验，采用“专业市场+展会活动+互联网”三位一体的运营模式推介产品。CASTPP中国—东盟纺织服装合作基地不仅有众多的面料供应商，还掌握诸多优质的渠道资源及设计人才资源，可以把渠道价值发挥放大，利用市场及相关平台打通产业链上下游，缩减丝绸纺织交易环节与成本，实现品牌厂商与采购商的现货交易。

研讨：中国—东盟纺织服装发展的优势互补

东盟国家的纺织服装业进出口情况如何？前景是否乐观？其行业生产供求是否能与中国的纺织业产地型市场优势形成互补？此次研讨会上，东盟各国纺织服装行业的商会协会代表们讲述了各自国家纺织行业情况和市场需求。

据与会代表们介绍，如今中国和东盟的纺织服装企业面临的共同问题，主要是世界经济不稳定，市场疲弱，需求减少。大环境上看：美国总统特朗普反对TPP；欧盟处理难民问题及英国脱欧造成的不确定影响，这些因素都会重创纺织服装行业。且大部分东盟国家依靠美国和欧盟的固打制出口成衣服装，从而享受美国的(GSP)普通化优惠关税制度，如今这些优惠税也可能面临考验。

具体到东盟各国而言：面料和辅料大量依赖进口，中小型企业为主，欠缺资金、生产成本高但技术落后、高素质劳工人力不足成为通病。例如泰国近年来因工资成本提高造成本国纺织服装企业不断减少；2016年上半年印尼成衣出口尽管较2015年同期有所增长，但电费成本占成衣产品成本3%，生产纺织品所需电费成本占整个产品之23%……这导致许多东盟国家仍无法有效参与全球纺品价值生产链。

与会的东盟采购商代表、中国—东盟经贸产业联盟主席黄汉良发言分析道：“面对劳动成本提高，市场微缩，贸易保护主义抬头等不利因素，各国纺织服装同业只有优势互补，建立利益共同体，拥抱‘一带一路’才有出路。”黄汉良表示，东盟已经成为中国纺织品服装出口第三大市场，仅次于欧盟和美国。近期东盟纺织企业总会(AFTEX) 主导起草的相关文件中也有提及，东盟有意成为世界纺织服装产业中心，拟通过优势互补，谋共赢格局，以期与中国、印度配合。

那么，中国—东盟纺织服装企业合作的空间在哪里？此次展会以产地型市场的优势把东盟客商“请进来”，中国纺服企业“走出去”是否也能同步？

越南服装纺织协会（VITAS）会长武德江在发言中展望了越南纺织服装业与中国企业合作的计划，拟落点生产技术与科研。合作或涉及纺织服装业人力资源、设计师、检测与品控等方面。中国企业可以带着自身先进的技术和人才“走出去”，寻求交流与合作。

柬埔寨中国商会纺织企业协会会长何恩佳称，柬埔寨拟建立面辅料生产基地，以经济特区的模式设立“行业集中的纺织、印染产业园区”，集中污水处理、供热、供电，减少投资成本，降低运行成本，且免税期长达9年，为上游供应商投资该国纺织服装业创造机遇。园区也期待与中国企业开展合作。

在新的产业分工格局中，中国—东盟纺织服装企业“请进来+走出去”的优势互补正在促成同步发展。作为本次活动的主办方代表，中国—东盟中小企业贸易促进平台（CASTPP）秘书长王雄昌表示，CASTPP将致力于促进中国—东盟中小企业对话与合作，做好纺织业国际贸易政策相关服务，双向引荐优势产品，为双方带来更多机遇。

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The China-ASEAN Textile and Garment Development Seminar & ASEAN Tourism Trade Fair, in Shengze, Suzhou on April 26-27, 2017, gathered more than 100 textile industrial leaders and purchasers from eight ASEAN countries including Brunei, Vietnam, Malaysia, Laos, Thailand, the Philippines, Cambodia and Indonesia.

During the event, participants launched discussion on the development and tendency of garment industry in both China and ASEAN countries; by virtue of product promotion conference and supply and demand match-up negotiation, ASEAN purchasers were provided opportunities to pay field visit to local competitive textile and weaving companies and to look for their desired ones; meanwhile, the local suppliers from Shengze could also obtain opportunities to do business with ASEAN purchasers.

This event was jointly held by CASTPP, China-ASEAN Panorama Magazine Agency and Shengze Oriental Textile City, aiming to build a platform for textile and garment industrial development in both China and ASEAN and to spur the relevant cooperation and exchanges between the two sides.

Grand gathering: Effective supply and demand match-up

At the opening ceremony on April 26, 2017, former Chinese Ambassador to Thailand Guan Mu made a speech on the China-ASEAN friendly cooperation. Dato’ Bong Hon Liong, former president of Malaysia-China Chamber of Commerce, indicated that textile industries from different countries should draw each other’s strengths to explore the new paths for industrial development and build a community of common interests in line with the Belt and Road Initiative. At the opening ceremony, there were activities like the signing ceremony between Shengze Oriental Textile City and LY.com tourism strategic cooperation, the launching ceremony of tourist bus and the tourism trade fair and silk garment fashion show. Besides, CYTS Silk Culture and Tourism Cooperation Base and CASTPP China-ASEAN Textile and Garment Cooperation Base were launched, which was witnessed by participants including the ASEAN delegates, purchasers, fabrics suppliers from Oriental Textile City and relevant sponsors.

The China-ASEAN Textile and Garment Development Seminar and fabrics purchase meeting were held in the afternoon on April 26, 2017. After hearing the introduction about the Shengze Oriental Textile City, representatives from ASEAN textile and garment industries introduced the status quo and pattern demand of textile industries in their own countries and discussed the prospects and complementary advantages in ASEAN textile industry. In addition, sponsors also introduced the featured textile products made in Shengze and provided purchasers and suppliers with opportunities to negotiate face to face.

On April 27, 2017, ASEAN delegates were arranged to pay field visits to Shenghong Group and Fuhua Shijia (a weaving company in Shengze). At the signing ceremony for MOU on ASEAN Tourism Trade Fair, nine ASEAN delegates signed MOUs with a part of suppliers from Oriental Textile City and have reached purchase agreements with over ten businesses in the Oriental Textile City.

In Shengze, a textile fabrics production market, dependingon the co-sponsors’ (CASTPP and China-ASEAN Panorama Magazine Agency) resources and successful practice of building international cooperation platform, this event advocated the product promotion mode of “professional market + exhibition + Internet”. CASTPP China-ASEAN Textile and Garment Textile Cooperation Base has resourceful fabrics suppliers, channels and designers, which can integrate the upper and lower ends of industrial chain, simplify the silk and textile trade procedure and cut down cost to boost the spot trading between manufacturers and purchasers.

Discussion: Complementary advantages for China-ASEAN textile and garment development

How is the import and export for textile and garment in ASEAN countries going? How about the prospect? And are there any complementary advantages for China and ASEAN textile industry to draw on? To answer these questions, this seminar focused on the textile industries and market demands in ASEAN countries.

According to representatives’ introduction at the meeting, the major problems faced by both China and ASEAN textile and garment companies are the worldwide economic instability, the sluggish market and decreasing demand. In terms of worldwide environment, U.S. President Trump’s opposition to the TPP, the refugee problem in EU, and Brexit has caused a series of uncertain impacts. All these factors may greatly impede the textile and garment industrial development because traditionally most of the ASEAN countries have long been exporting garments based on the EU and American Quotas System and enjoying the GSP; now these preferential policies might be challenged as well.

Most ASEAN countries import fabrics and accessories from other countries. Their textile companies are mostly small and medium-sized and these companies often have diffculty in lack of capital, high production cost, backward technology, and lack of and highquality labor. For example, in Thailand, the number of textile and garment companies has been decreasing for recent years due to the increase of wage cost; in Indonesia, the electricity cost accounted for 3 percent of the product cost, and the electricity cost for manufacturing accounted for 23 percent of the total product cost though the garment export value was up in the first half of 2016 compared with the same period in 2015; in Laos, the garment export volume in 2016 exceeded 37 million, worthy of US$ 160 million, registering a year-on-year decrease of 5 percent; in Vietnam, the import volume of raw materials for textile hit 70% in 2016… All this has stopped most ASEAN countries from being part of global textile production value chain.

Dato’ Bong Hon Liong, former president of Malaysia-China Chamber of Commerce indicated that, in the face of negative factors like increasing labor cost, shrinking market and rising trade protectionism, textile industries from different countries should draw on each other’s strengths to explore the new paths for industrial development and build a community of common interests in line with the Belt and Road Initiative. As he said, ASEAN has been China’s third largest export destination, only second to EU and USA. According to relevant document released by AFTEX recently, ASEAN expects to grow into the textile and garment manufacturing center in the world by drawing on strengths from China and India. Then where should China-ASEAN textile and garment cooperation go? As this seminar aims to introduce ASEAN purchasers in the fabric production-based market — Shengze, can Chinese textile companies go global to explore ASEAN market in the same time?

Mr. Vu Duc Giang, Chairman of Vietnam Textile & Apparel Association (VITAS) expressed the vision plan for cooperation between Vietnamese and Chinese textile and garment companies, involving cooperation in manufacturing technology and research, textile human resources, designers, inspection and quality control. He suggested that Chinese companies can seek for exchanges and cooperation in ASEAN by providing their technology and professional personnel.

Mr. He Enjia, Chairman of Textile Enterprise Association of Chinese Chamber of Commerce in Cambodia, said that there should be a fabrics manufacturing base in Cambodia. He suggested building an industrial park with textile, printing, dyeing, sewage treatment and heat and power supply, and practicing zero tariffs for nine years, in order to attract foreign investment lower investment cost and operating cost. It’s a project that needs Chinese companies’ participation.

Dr. Rodger Wong, Secretary General of China-ASEAN SMEs Trade Promotion Platform (CASTPP), said that CASTPP will commit itself to boosting the dialogue and cooperation between Chinese and ASEAN SMEs by helping SMEs better know about international trade policies and introducing mutual competitive products.

Shengze, a China’s Silk Town, to Bring China-ASEAN Textile Cooperation Vision— Sidelights on the China-ASEAN Textile and Garment Development Seminar & ASEAN Tourism Trade Fair

Written by Lin Qianqian / Translated by Mao Yuye