布拉诺：惊艳了时光的彩色小岛

Victoria+Boyd

在距意大利水城威尼斯七公里的地方坐落着一座小岛——布拉诺，它以五彩斑斓的房屋闻名于世，看上去仿佛是一个充满生机的童话世界。它也是一座水城，但却不似威尼斯那般喧闹，在这里，岁月静好，一切都是那样简单、诗意而美好……

Let the soft winds of the Adriatic Sea1） blow through your hair aboard a ferry2） from Venice to Burano. Feel the stress of the modern world fade away as you sail towards the peaceful fishing village permanently caught in the 19th century.

Located in the Venetian3） lagoons4） and famous for its long stretches of brightly painted houses， Burano is a small archipelago5） of four islands divided by narrow canals and linked by stone bridges.

Burano resembles a patchwork6） of colors sewn together by the threads of dark green canals. Bright flowers bloom in window boxes， fresh laundry blows in the breeze， small boats dot the canals， and sweet smells of freshly baked pastries float through the air. The village is postcard perfect， and is certainly the most peaceful place for an afternoon getaway from busy Venice.

The reasons behind Burano&apos；s famous rainbow of houses remain a mystery. Some say the houses were painted so that fisherman could see the island in the distance as they returned after a long day at sea. Others say that families used to paint their homes to mark where their property ended and their neighbor&apos；s began. In any case， the tradition remained. Today， homeowners who wish to paint their house must send a request to the government， who respond by giving notice of the specific colors permitted for that area.

The Art of Lacemaking

Burano rose to importance in the 16th century， when women on the island began producing and exporting handmade lace. Historically， each woman specialized in a single stitch7）， so each piece was passed from woman to woman until it was finally ready to be sold to Europe&apos；s aristocratic8） elite9）.

Learn more about the island&apos；s detailed history with this delicate art by visiting the Lace Museum located in the historic Podestà of Torcello Palace in Galuppi Square. The small two-story museum offers impressive displays of invaluable lace products and showcases the history of the art， from its origins in the 16th century to contemporary methods and styles.

If you don&apos；t have time to visit the museum， stroll along Galuppi Street until you reach the center of the island， Galuppi Square. Neighborly10） women welcome you into their shops to watch as they delicately weave the intricate11） patterns of an art passed down through the generations.

乘上威尼斯开往布拉诺的摆渡船，让亚得里亚海的微风拂过你的发丝。随着船儿驶向这个永远停留在19世纪的宁静渔村，感受那現代世界的压力逐渐消散。

布拉诺位于威尼斯的 湖群中，因其一长片一长片被涂上绚丽色彩的房屋而闻名。它是一个由四座岛组成的小群岛，岛与岛之间都被狭长的河道相隔，并由座座石桥相连。

布拉诺就像是一块色彩斑斓的拼布，而条条深绿色的河道正是色块间的缝合线。艳丽的花儿在窗槛的花箱中盛开，刚洗好的衣物在微风中轻摆，河道上布满了小船，空气中飘着刚出炉的糕点的甜香。这个小镇如同明信片一般完美，若你想逃离繁忙的威尼斯去度过一个下午，这里绝对是最为宁静的去处。

布拉诺彩虹般绚丽的房屋十分有名，但其由来仍然是个谜。有人说岛上的居民将房屋刷上颜色，这样出海打了一天鱼的渔民归来时远远地就能看到这座小岛。也有人说岛上的人家以前给房屋涂色，是为了标清和邻居房产的边界。不论起因为何，这一传统都留了下来。今天，屋主若想给房屋刷上颜色，必须向政府递交一份申请，政府回复时会告知屋主该区域可以用哪些特定的颜色来粉刷。

欣赏蕾丝手艺

16世纪时，布拉诺的地位变得重要起来，从那时起，岛上的女人开始生产并出口手工编织的蕾丝。据历史记载，每个女人都专攻一种针法，因此每一件蕾丝制品都是从一个女人传到另一个女人的手中来织，直至织好可以卖给欧洲的贵族人士。

想要了解更多关于岛上这一精美手艺的详细历史，你可以去参观位于加卢皮广场古老的托切罗波德斯塔宫里的蕾丝博物馆。这座两层楼的小博物馆陈列着十分珍贵的蕾丝产品，令人印象深刻；它还展现了这一手艺的发展历史，从其16世纪的起步到现代的各种织法和风格。

如果你没有时间参观博物馆，那可以沿着加卢皮大街漫步，一直走到小岛的中心——加卢皮广场。在那里，友好的女人会欢迎你光顾她们的店铺，观看她们精心编织蕾丝这一代代相传的手艺的各种复杂图案。

People-watching in the Village Square

Continue your stroll up Galuppi Street and find yourself surrounded by the typical array12） of tourist shops you thought you abandoned in Venice. Grab a table at one of the many bars scattered along the cobblestone13） road and sip a glass of vino14） while people-watching.

On Wednesday mornings， Galuppi Street transforms into a vibrant open-air market. Wander through the stalls15）， chat with locals， and discover the sights and smells of a typical Venetian fishing village： warm bread， baked treats， creamy cheeses， and of course， plenty of freshly caught fish and shellfish.

A True Fisherman&apos；s Island

Although there are a few touristy areas in Burano， the island still exudes16） that authentic17） fishing village atmosphere that can be hard to find in Venice. Fishermen return to their brightly colored homes at dusk with their daily catch， local women tend to their flower boxes as children play along the canals below， elderly Italians gather to chat in the main square as the cheerful village18） buzzes around19） them.

As the world beyond this tiny Venetian lagoon continues to move faster and faster， the traditional Buranese lifestyle struggles to remain afloat20）. Some advice： Go now.

看看人来人往

继续沿着加卢皮大街漫步，你会发现周围到处都是典型的旅游商店，而你本以为它们已经被你抛在威尼斯了。在这条鹅卵石铺就的大街两侧散落着许多家酒吧，随便进去一家，找张桌子坐下，来上一杯，你就可以一边细品葡萄酒，一边看人来人往。

每周三上午，加盧皮大街都会变成一个热闹的露天市场。你可以在小摊之间闲逛，与当地人聊天，探索一个典型的威尼斯渔村的风景和味道：热乎乎的面包、烤制的美食、丝滑般的奶酪，当然啦，还有好多刚捕来的海鱼和海贝。

感受纯正渔岛风情

虽然布拉诺有那么几个景区，但这座小岛仍然散发出在威尼斯很难找到的那种纯正的渔村氛围。渔夫们在傍晚带着这一天的收获回到色彩鲜艳的家，当地的女人们打理着自己的花箱，孩子们则在下面的河道边玩耍；上了年纪的意大利人聚在主广场上聊着天，乐呵呵的村民们则在他们四周忙活着。

随着这个威尼斯 湖以外的世界继续运转得越来越快，布拉诺的传统生活方式勉强维系着。给你一点建议：要去现在就去！

1. Adriatic Sea： 亚得里亚海（地中海的一个大海湾，位于亚平宁半岛和巴尔干半岛之间）

2. ferry [?feri] n. 渡船；摆渡（船）

3. Venetian [v??ni??n] adj. 威尼斯的；威尼斯风格的

4. lagoon [l??ɡu?n] n. 湖；环礁湖

5. archipelago [?ɑ?k??pel?ɡ??] n. 群岛

6. patchwork [?p?t?w??k] n. （由各种颜色或形状的许多小块织物拼缝而成的）拼缝物；拼布工艺

7. stitch [st?t?] n. 针法；编织法

8. aristocratic [??r?st??kr?t?k] adj. 贵族的

9. elite [e??li?t] n. 上层人士；社会精英

10. neighborly [?ne?b?li] adj. 友好的；乐于助人的

11. intricate [??ntr?k?t] adj. 复杂精细的；错综复杂的

12. array [??re?] n. 大量；大堆

13. cobblestone [?k?blst??n] n. 小圆石；鹅卵石

14. vino [?vi?n??] n. （西班牙或意大利）葡萄酒

15. stall [st??l] n. （商场或集市上的）货摊，摊位

16. exude [?ɡ?zju?d] vt. 充分显露（某种品质）

17. authentic [???θent?k] adj. 正宗的，原汁原味的

18. village [?v?l?d?] n. 乡村居民；村民

19. buzz around： （忙得）团团转

20. afloat [??fl??t] adj. （在经济上）应付自如的