一江风色送潮生

2018-10-11 01:58:40 文化交流2018年10期

陈荣力

走进面积1400平方公里的浙东上虞,无论是翻开上虞的历史、触摸上虞的文化,还是游览上虞的山水、探询上虞的经济,活力磅礴、千年峥嵘的母亲河曹娥江,端的是生生不息的血脉。

这条江携两岸山峦的奇秀俊逸,纳上下支流的甘泽旖旎,滋养了上虞的山水之丽、物质之丰;这条江铸名贤大哲的精神风骨,扬文化叶脉的丰采华瞻,涵育了上虞的文明之灿、人文之美;这条江是上虞的精气所凝、福祉所依;这条江更是上虞的发展所托、希望所在。

人文胜境——榜歌天际闻

这是曹娥江畔一个名叫虹蛘的小村庄。相传中华文明始祖的虞舜就出生在这里。《史记·五帝本纪》载:舜父瞽叟顽,母(继母)嚚,弟象傲,皆欲杀舜。舜顺适不失道,兄弟孝慈。欲杀,不可得;即求,尝在侧。舜以孝德而被尧选作禅让的接班人,他的“孝感动天”被后世列为二十四孝之首,上虞也因而成为中华孝德文化的源头。

虞舜引领的孝德文化是上虞人文最重要的基因。东汉少女曹娥“投江寻父,负父尸出”的壮烈,让原名舜江的这条母亲河又被命名为曹娥江。纪念“天下第一孝女”的曹娥庙,是国家4A级中华孝德园的核心古迹。有1800多年历史的曹娥庙,以雕刻、楹联、壁画、曹娥碑“四绝”,被誉为“江南第一庙”。

面积达40公顷的中华孝德园内,还有大舜庙、舜耕群雕、中华孝德文化馆、中鑫艺术博物馆等景点。汉式建筑的大舜庙,是江南地域祭祀舜帝最重要场所。由韩美林大师设计的舜耕群雕,为世界最大的孝德題材雕塑。中鑫艺术博物馆则荟萃江南园林逸姿,是国内首屈一指的民营建筑艺术博物馆。作为全国规模最大、內容最丰富、形态最生动的孝德文化旅游景区,中华孝德园已成为研究、传承、弘扬中华孝德文化的地标。

沿曹娥江溯流而上,在传说中虞舜的出生地虹蛘村南,临江横卧着一座中国历史上的名山——东山。东山再起的成语典故,便来自曾隐居于此山的东晋名相谢安。唐代诗人李白曾三次登临东山探幽思贤。因了一座东山的牵引,浙东“唐诗之路”的曹娥江,古往今来有400多位诗人游览吟唱,至今诗意绵邈。

围绕着东山所在的这段曹娥江的两岸,山光水色间如珍珠般散落着众多青瓷古窑址。一次次考古新发现,将瓷器之国的瓷文化历史一次次向前推进。青瓷之源的上虞,正在打造瓷源小镇,将推动青瓷文化的复兴。沿江继续前行,在虞嵊交界的一片碧绿的茶园中,长眠着东汉唯物主义哲学家王充,其历时三十年所著的《论衡》,至今闪耀着不朽的思想光芒。而稍晚于王充,同样有一位叫魏伯阳的大家,醉心于道教丹经和炼丹术的研究,他留下的那部叫《周易参同契》的奇书,是世界最早的化学著作。魏伯阳的炼丹之处,位于上虞古县城丰惠东南的凤鸣山,“万古丹经王”在此诞生,让凤鸣山这个国家3A级景区,成为古代化学的滥觞之地,让人肃然起敬。

在上虞,千古流传的不仅有学术巨著、诗词孝德,更有悲欢离合的爱情故事。英台故里祝家庄是梁祝传说的发源地,这曲令全人类都为之动容的爱情绝唱,至今仍在这里久久萦绕。祝家庄景区全面展示了“梁祝”这一非遗文化,已成为天下有情人追寻忠贞不渝爱情的圣地。

“越郡佳山水,菁江接上虞。”上虞山水向为“东南山水越为首”的典范,而与此共滋互誉的人文胜景,更盛享“榜歌天际闻”的美名。

品质原乡——诗意属谁家

南北贯穿上虞全境的曹娥江及其两岸山水,自古就以千岩竞秀、万壑争流著称,而在曹娥江重要支流的隐潭溪旁,上虞最高峰覆卮山傲然屹立,向北俯视着整个虞舜大地。

相传覆卮山为神仙在此豪饮后倒扣酒杯得名。覆卮山北麓有万年石浪、千年梯田和百年古村三大景观。第四纪冰川遗迹——覆卮山石浪气势壮伟,堪称地质奇观,吸引着全国各地的“驴友”前来攀登挑战。油菜花盛开的季节,千年梯田犹如一道道金黄的云梯,沿着整个山麓盘桓层叠,铺展逶迤,胜若仙山琼海。而散落在群山之间的-个个百年古村落,石墙黛瓦悠然迎风,花木葱茏掩映生姿。其原生态的山乡景观,让你转瞬之间找回梦中的丝丝乡愁。

这是嵇康故里、状元之乡长塘镇的一个美丽村庄——桃园村。竹深林茂、鸟语花香的国家3A级景区桃花源景区就坐落在这里。浓浓的魏晋遗风和鲜活的时代特征,把村庄和景区完美地融合在一起,让世外桃源的美称名副其实。“十里桃园伴修篁,青山碧水燃红柿”,是这片山水的最美注释。

作为上虞迈向全域旅游时代的鲜活诠释,围绕绿色生态、风情旅游、休闲宜居,以“五星达标、3A争创”为龙头,一台全域建成“大景区”“大花园”的美丽乡村建设大戏,正在曹娥江两岸广袤的土地上奏响着家园如画、生活如诗的时代旋律。

在八百里真山真水的虞南大花园,陈溪精品旅游线风姿曼妙,岭南风情旅游小镇雏形初现,章镇田园社区呼之欲出。

在禾熟鱼肥、河湖连袂的虞东盆地,小越湖汽车露营蓝图既就,皂李湖休闲养生轮廓凸显。百年名校春晖园名家汇聚、高山仰止。

在绿野丰沃、滩涂平展的虞北平原,大闸、大桥、大潮交相辉映,百花争艳的杭州湾海上花田小镇,正由国家4A级景区向5A级景区快速迈进……

“古村落残霞,客路换岁华。眼前风景别,诗意属谁家。”如诗似画的上虞乡村,正蝶化为你探寻乡愁密码、一圆乡愁之梦的最美品质原乡。

仙果之旅——花开相映明

属亚热带季风性气候的上虞,湿润多雨、光照充足,肥沃的土壤和丰美甘冽的曹娥江水滋润灌濯,使上虞成为种植各种优质水果的乐土。以春季草莓、樱桃,夏季杨梅、葡萄,秋季黄花梨、猕猴桃,冬季柿子、冬枣等为主打,上虞不但实现了季季有鲜果、月月可采摘,集鲜果采摘、农家体验、餐饮民宿、山水游历于一体的“四季仙果之旅”,更是饮誉江南的著名旅游品牌。

料峭的初春季节,漫山遍野的樱桃花,将四明山下的下管洙风村裹挟在一片洁白的云海里。而短短一个半月后,鲜红的樱桃便挂满了枝头。洙风村是被称作“春天第一仙果”樱桃的主产地之一,这里的短柄樱桃以果形大、成熟早、色红味甜闻名。在虞南腹地的下管、岭南、陈溪等地,像洙风村这样的樱桃村有20余个,种植面积达5500亩,年产樱桃超过50万公斤。

每年的夏至前后,是驛亭镇二都村最忙的季节。家家户户的杨梅山上,操着各种口音的游客蜂拥而至。以二都命名的驿亭二都杨梅,向为朝廷贡品,在“中国杨梅之乡”的驿亭镇,二都杨梅的种植面积达1.5万亩。在五月的熏风里,投身绿海红波的浪漫,饱餐一粒千金的美味,无疑是“四季仙果之旅”的至尊。

“珠帐累累挂,龙须蔓蔓抽。”葡萄是上虞产量最大的鲜果,全区种植面积已近两万亩,特别是在“江南吐鲁番”的盖北镇,野藤葡萄连片种植面积超过1.2万亩,是浙江最大的葡萄种植、集散和旅游观光地。野藤葡萄不仅品质优良、鲜冽香甜,品种更多达30余种,堪称中国葡萄博物园。

近年来,随着打造“四季仙果之旅”升级版行动的推进和提升,昔日简单的水果种植基地正向庄园化、景区化发展。过去单纯的采摘+品尝+加观光的线性旅游、单项旅游,也正朝着采摘+餐饮+民宿+休闲的综合旅游、文化旅游迈进。一批以仙果旅游景观、创意仙果体验、高端度假业态为特征的四季仙果文化旅游项目,正展现其醉人的风姿。

“墟里炊烟与云平,陌上花开相映明”。名誉江南的“四季仙果之旅”,恰似一条条四季溢香的河流,醉美人间。

滨江旅游——风色送潮生

每当夜色临近、华灯初上,曹娥江城区段两岸的江堤,便迎来一天中最热闹的时刻。国家级水利景观工程——曹娥江十八里景观带犹如母亲河的秀美飘带,是上虞市民观览江景、休闲娱乐、运动健身的最佳去处。

曹娥江流经上虞城区段长达9公里,水面宽阔,江堤坚固,两岸高楼林立、花木扶疏。特别是实施拥江西进战略以来,以e游小镇的崛起为标志,城区一江两岸已成为上虞建设创新之区、品质之城的强大引擎。而打造以水陆联动的黄金旅游线为目标,滨江观光、水陆运动、休闲娱乐、文化创意、商务会展、生态农业等诸多元素互动融合的曹娥江文化旅游项目,正在奏响上虞全域旅游的最强音。

在滨江临水的城南湿地公园,江上花海游人如织,七色风车迎风舞,满地繁花铺彩虹,一个江畔童话世界缤纷绚丽。

在树木苍翠的两岸景观带,谢晋电影馆、非遗展示馆、娥江书场、虞舜书画院庭园错落,墨韵书香里人文飘逸,越调绍腔中风情萦绕。

在江花胜火的江滩水岸,沙滩排球、沙滩网球笑声翻飞,月光音乐趴、篝火派对歌喉高亢,半程马拉松、自行车骑行赛等诸多运动赛事,更是热情如潮,人气高涨。

端午前后,大型龙舟竞赛引得万人空巷,江上祭祀曹娥彰显古老风俗,水上婚礼、游船观光和诸多水面训练、运动赛事的举办,使曹娥江成为江南地域最具优势和特色的水上运动基地。

入夜的曹娥江两岸,万家灯火倒映粼粼波光,暮色低垂,横跨曹娥江的条条彩虹,更如灿烂的星河洒落人间,把一江两岸的繁华点缀得如梦如幻……

“两岸灯火连海屿,一江风色送潮生。”

流淌千年的曹娥江,曾因千峰翠色的青瓷引得百舸争流的繁华,也因白云还自散的风致凝聚唐诗之路的旖旎。今天,当以曹娥江文化旅游项目为标识的全域旅游风正帆悬的时候,曹娥江,这条古老而华滋的母亲河,必将焕发出澎湃的青春激情和无穷的隽永诗意。

(本文图片由王晖摄)

Shangyu, previously a rural county and now a district of Shaoxing, is a place of history and culture and natural beauty. Zigzagging in eastern Zhejiang, Caoe River is the mother river of 1,400-km2 Shangyu.

According to local legends, Emperor Shun was born in a small village by the river. His father was blind. Shortly after Shun was born, his mother died. The stepmother and his father had a son and a daughter. The stepmother and the half-brother tried several times to kill Shun, but Shun managed to escape and still treated his mother and brother with respect and kindness. The man of virtue was eventually picked by Emperor Yao as the successive ruler of China. Shuns filial piety story, though only a legend, stays at the top of the 24 filial piety stories in Chinese culture.

Virtue and filial piety is a key spiritual legacy of the regional culture of Shangyu. In the Eastern Han Dynasty (25-220AD), a young girl named Caoe went into a local river to retrieve her fathers body after the fisherman drowned. Eventually she got the body and carried it to the shore. Caoe River was renamed after her. Before, the name was called Shun River in honor of the emperor. In this renaming, one could see that local people believed that the daughter who retrieved her fathers body was more important than the emperor.

Caoe Temple was first constructed in 151 AD in honor of the young woman.

In the following centuries and through different dynasties, it was rebuilt again and again with the funds from the national and provincial governments. Many celebrities including famed calligraphers such as Wang Xizhi contributed couplets and inscriptions to the temple. In 1989, the temple was designated as a cultural relic under the protection of the provincial government of Zhejiang. In 2013, it was inscribed on the 7th national list of key cultural relics under the protection of the national government.

If you travel upstream along Caoe River, you see East Hill, an important hill in Chinese history. Xie An, a scholar of the Eastern Jin (317-420AD), retired early to a reclusive life after a brief official appointment. It was not until he was 40 years old that he came out of the reclusive life and worked as a government official. He was so capable that he eventually saved the royal house from collapse. A Comeback to Power from East Hill, a set phrase in Chinese language, is the most succinct telling of the story. In Chinese history such a story has been repeated again and again. The most famous example in the modern times is probably Deng Xiaoping, who came back to power three times in his political career. Li Bai, presumably the greatest poet of the Tang (618-907), went out of his way to visit East Hill three times. Scholars of today assume that it is this East Hill that added a huge attraction to the Poetry Road of the Tang in eastern Zhejiang. Though this so-called road of poetry is a modern discovery, poets of the Tang did travel a lot in the scenic east of the province. An examination of ancient poetry collections reveals that more than 400 poets in ancient times traveled up Caoe River and visited East Hill.

Near East Hill are many ancient remains of the ancient celadon kilns along the two shores of the river. Archaeological finds in recent years have traced the history of pottery making in Zhejiang back further to more ancient times.

In a tea plantation near the border of Shangyu and Shengxian County lies the tomb of Wang Chong, a philosopher of the Eastern Han Dynasty (25-220AD). , a collection of philosophical arguments penned by the scholar in a period of 30 years, is a classic piece that still shines today. Wei Boyang, an ancient alchemist who was almost a contemporary of Wang Chong, dedicated his life to the study of immortality pills. He wrote a book on his theoretical studies and practices, which has turned out to be the earliest book of chemistry in the world. The mountain where he set up his workshop and experimented on immortality pills is called Fengming Mountain. It is now a national 3-A scenic zone.

The Butterfly Lovers, a tragic romance story, originated in Shangyu. The tale has long been dramatized and is in the repertoire of many regional operas. There is also a namesake Chinese violin concerto, which has been played around the world since the concertos sensational debut on May 27, 1959. There is a tourism attraction in Shangyu that features the great love story and the man and the woman involved in the tragedy.

Across rural Shangyu are many idyllic scenes and ancient villages. One huge attraction is a valley of rocks, which is a legacy of the glacier of the ice age million years ago. Another attraction is terraced fields, which allow tourists of today a glance into the agricultural past of the country. Ancient villages give tourists a more visual insight into a lifestyle that is long gone but makes people of today wonder if it is wise to let it disappear forever.