博洛尼亚：长廊之都、心灵之母

文、图严春友

圣·卢卡长廊St. Luca Promenade

这是第二次来博洛尼亚，然而两次的印象截然不同。

去年一月来时，身体欠佳，心情糟糕，所以看到的是一个破旧而衰败的博洛尼亚——街上的建筑烟熏火燎，黑乎乎的；到处是电线，人也多，乱哄哄的；气候阴冷而潮湿，总感到凉飕飕的。留下的唯一美好印象是这里的橘子特别好吃——新鲜、饱满、滋润、汁多、味甜，自然也就很可口。

可是，这次看到的却大不一样，虽然建筑还是那些建筑，街道依然是原来的街道，但博洛尼亚似乎已经不是原来的博洛尼亚了。由此不妨可以说，用什么样的眼光就会看到什么样的风景。

博洛尼亚老城区的建筑，朝向街道的那一面，全都建有高大的走廊，有了这些走廊，无论春夏秋冬，不管有什么样的雨雪都不在话下了。而那些廊柱，由于建筑时间的久远，或斑驳，或黝黑，透出历史的深度和广度。走在这样的廊檐下，犹如走在历史的隧道里，仿佛在柱廊的拐角处就可以见到古代的圣贤。难怪古代希腊曾经产生过一个柱廊学派，这样的廊子的确适合于讨论哲学，在那里可以讨论到天长地久。

最令人称奇的是博洛尼亚还有一段世界上最长的长廊——圣·卢卡长廊，它从山脚蜿蜒而上，直到山顶，犹如中国的长城。在市中心，乘上14路汽车，十几分钟后到达体育运动场便可见长廊的入口。沿着数不尽的台阶而上，大约一个小时可以登上山顶来到长廊的尽头，全长近4公里。在长廊的尽头，也是山的最高处有一座教堂，叫圣卢卡教堂。长廊的出口面对湛蓝的天空，那里竖立着一个十字架，好像从高高的天空降下。原来，这个长廊并非一个简单的遮风避雨的设施，还是一条通向“天国”的阶梯。

提到博洛尼亚，当然不能忘记博洛尼亚大学，因为它是世界上最早的大学，它大约建立于1088年。它的历史如长廊一般，伸向历史的弥漫处，在那里闪烁着许多熠熠生辉的名字——帕拉塞尔苏斯、丢勒、塔索、伊拉斯谟、皮科·米兰多拉、尼古拉·哥白尼等，他们在这里或学习或执教，由此博洛尼亚成为学术圣地。由于这个原因，它才有资格被称为“心灵之母”。

今天的博洛尼亚大学已经拥有许多现代化的教学设施，然而九百年前呱呱坠地时却筚路蓝缕，它的教室就是教堂前面的空地，教堂上的阳台则是讲台，老师站在那里讲课，学生则在露天空地上听讲。最早在这里开设的课程是法学。由此也不难看出孕育现代文明的大学与教会的关系：大学是由教会培育出来的，而后来推翻了圣经上的种种说法的科学，则是在大学里产生的。这就意味着，教会的敌人是它自己造就的，世界上的事情就是这样复杂。

博洛尼亚大学最早的授课地点The earliest teaching place at the University of Bologna

博洛尼亚大学一角A corner of the University of Bologna

圣·卢卡长廊St. Luca Promenade

This is my second time in Bologna, but the impressions of the two visits are quite diverse.

I was in a poor shape with bad mood in January last year,so what I saw was a dilapidated and declining Bologna---the buildings are dark and smoked; wires everywhere, and so many people; and the weather was cold and humid, which made me always feel cold. The only favorable impression left is that the oranges here are especially delicious, fresh, moisturizing, juicy and sweet, and naturally it is most tasteful.

However, what I see this time is most different. Although the buildings are still there, the streets remain the same, Bologna does not seem to be the original one. It may be said that what kind of scenery is determined by what kind of vision.

The buildings in the old town of Bologna, the side facing the street, all have tall corridors. With these, no matter what seasons, rain or snow, it'll do properly. And those pillars, because of the long time of construction, mottled or dark, reveal the depth and breadth of history. Walking under such a corridor is like walking in a historical tunnel, as if you may encounter the ancient sages at the corner of the colonnade. It is no wonder that the ancient Greece once produced a colonnade school.Such a porch is indeed suitable for discussing philosophy, where debate can be lasting forever.

The most amazing thing is that Bologna has one of the world's longest promenades, Portico di San Luca, which rises from the foot of the mountain to the top, just like the Great Wall of China. In the city center, the No.14 bus will take you to the sports stadium in ten minutes or so, where you can see the entrance to the promenade. Along the countless steps, you can climb to the top of the mountain in about an hour and reach the end of the promenade for a total length of nearly 4 kilometers. At the end of the promenade, also the highest point of the mountain, there is a church called Madonna di San Luca. The exit of the promenade faces the blue sky, where a cross stands, as if it was descending from the high sky. It turns out that this corridor is not a simple shelter from the wind, but also a ladder leading to the "Heaven".Upon mentioning Bologna, of course, you may not miss the University of Bologna, because she is the first university across the globe as she was founded in about 1088. Her history, like a promenade, extends to the pervasiveness, where many glorious names are shining - Paracelsus, Dürer, Tasso, Erasmus, Pico Mirandola, Nicolas Copernicus etc., they were here to study or coach, and Bologna becomes an academic sacred place. That is why Bologna is called the source of L'alma Mater.

Today, the University of Bologna has many modern teaching facilities. However, when it was established 900 years ago, it was most shabby as her classroom was the open space in front of the church. The balcony on the church was the podium. The teacher stood there to lecture and the students listened in the open air.The first course offered here was law. It is not difficult to see the connection between the university and the church that gave birth to modern civilization: the university was nurtured by the church, and the science that overthrew the various statements in the Bible was produced in the university. This means that the enemy of the church is created by herself, and the things in the world are so complicated.

圣·卢卡长廊的尽头End of St. Luca Promenade

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