海边，一个小村的倒影

黄岚

咸祥在哪里？就在宁波市鄞州区的东南角。咸祥古称嵩南（位于大嵩之南），元、明间，外来移民利用海涂高阜处煮盐，因名盐场。清嘉庆年间，更名为咸祥。

一

因为一个人，爱上一个村。

她说，咸祥，也即全体吉祥。她是谁，她就是桃奶奶。桃是兆春之木，多么吉祥之木呀。江南有嘉木，就在咸祥的横山村。横山在哪里？东濒象山港，北倚福泉山。如此吉祥之地，焉能不去？国庆中秋长假的第8天，我随桃奶奶，意气风发向横山。

且以《入横山村》诗记之：大嵩江水绕横山，明末渔耕村路连。风雨盐田今渐远，游人兴探海潮边。

横山村因山而名，村南有三个连着的小山，刚好在一望无垠的大海边，横看形成短短一横，竖看是个“山”字形，山脚下的小村子因此得名。现在的横山村由外营、鲍家、横山等3个自然村合并而成，桃奶奶的爸爸家在鲍家，妈媽家则在横山，桃奶奶走到村子里，许多奶奶级、妈妈级人物就跟她打招呼。听着一声声乡音，桃奶奶很激动。

横山村是个重教育的村。村室展览墙上介绍了一门四博士的故事。村民陈世堂、赵丽月夫妇将三儿一女都培养成了博士，这实在是不容易。除了陈家四博士外，还有知名律师、大学教授等乡贤。当然，桃奶奶也是其中的杰出一员。桃奶奶回忆起她小时候读书的情景，听得我们连连感叹。她说，上小学时每天从这横山的一头翻到另一头，而初中时借读到竹头读书，从住的地方过去要翻过两个山头。上第一个山头时，可回望自己的家，等爬上第二个山头，就可以看到学校了。而两个山头之间，当年小小年龄的她拼命地跑，起早摸黑的山路上没有人作伴呀。多么不容易的求学之路！她在20世纪的80年代初考上杭州大学，毕业后在宁波药专当教师。

我认识她时她已经是副教授了，没一点架子。因为每天带着孙女识草赏花，她连带着将小区里的小朋友一起带进了草木世界。孩子们既见识了花花草草，又长了不少知识，更主要的是培养了对大自然的兴趣。而这次她要将这个小朋友研学草木基地即“小八哥”博物游学基地放到横山村去，并成立“桃奶奶博物游学工作室”，回报生她养她的家乡。

二

有这么好的村民在，这横山村岂不是最美丽的村？而我也因为她的缘故，隔了不到10天，又带着闺蜜去咸祥，强烈推荐她们去爬横山登烽火台了。

登上海边的烽火台，别有一番风情。

宋时，在横山设了潮讯点。至明时因抗倭需要，大嵩设千户所，横山设烽火台。因为从北仑洋沙山到咸祥鹰龙山，有五六十里海岸线，多为滩涂，唯有横山一带船可直抵，登陆即为平原，因此横山成了海防前哨，是明时防卫倭寇的重要关隘。至抗日战争时期，又筑了碉堡和防空洞。1949年后，烽火台一度成了瞭望台。

横山村是个海防要塞。在桃奶奶的指点下，我站在烽火台远远地眺望碉堡，碉堡似乎并不起眼。再向前，便是无际的大海，海浪拥着滩涂，一次次亲吻海岸，又一次次后退，她是否也记得百年的倭害？且让我以一首七绝《登烽火台》记录之：象山港北横山秀，烽火台前战火燃。寇影警声何处去，唯听海浪说徂迁。

横山真的不算高，大约海拔50米，但在一望无边的大海（象山港）前面，显得特别高大雄伟。

横山上有石阶铺成，据说原先有横山古道，现在修整过了，干净的条石，砌成之字形的登山道。两边的林木不算高大，盐肤木、青冈树、柿树、枫香树等在葛藤、木防己的缠绕下郁郁葱葱。石道两边一尺见宽的泥土上播了花籽，对比上次去时明显长高了。山顶有小石屋，石头墙壁上爬着薜荔藤，很有年代感。

待我们登上烽火台，啊，好辽阔的视野：向东，蓝天白云与远处的碧海连成一片;向南，宽阔的象山港中泊着几艘船，似乎要在捕鱼作业;向西南，先是横山码头，再过去就是象山港大桥，桥上的车流一片繁忙;向北，星罗棋布的金色稻田与虾塘鱼塘，包围着崭新的村子。西北处的沿海公路穿村而过，外围还有一条大嵩江，托着美丽而多情的横山村。

我们来到村里，看到花草沿阶，路边晒着龙头烤、米馒头、灰汁团，透出浓郁的乡村风味。在我看来，世外桃源也不过如此了。

登高望村，这真是：登高环顾星棋布，秋色澄明村舍妍。碧水长廊多故事，多门学士耀华年。

三

看到横山码头，闺蜜英就激动起来：这不是我以前每次去象山摆渡的地方吗？原来闺蜜在30年前就已经涉足横山了，却在此刻才真正认识横山。咸祥的交通，除了公路就是这航路，而横山都占了，可见其重要性了。而现在象山港大桥开通，这轮渡成为历史，但码头上仍有船只在开动，这海防要塞的地位仍未改变。

渔耕横山，八月渔棉会。

咸祥沿海的滩涂地是天然的养殖鱼虾之地，而慢慢由海涂形成的平原又适合种植棉花。而横山村是其中十足的渔耕之村。在历史长河中，咸祥人民在庆祝丰收时形成了“八月渔棉会”这一载歌载舞的盛会。“八月半渔棉会”有300多年历史，是纪念先贤的庆典活动，已列入省非遗名录。

农历八月，举行祭祀、演戏、迎神爵献、行会等活动，各种渔船、花桥船、龙船、凤船、双龙船等彩船大巡游，这是人们庆祝丰收的狂欢日子，也是纪念唐时浙江观察史裴肃平乱佑民、清时鄞县知县杨懿围涂筑塘改造田地之功勋。特别是杨懿，勤政恤民，兴工治理大嵩河，建横山、大礁、小礁等6个闸门。杨懿的老家在陕西蒲城，清雍正年间任职鄞县，他上任29个月，却为民做了大量实事好事，最后在抗击洪灾中劳累过度殉职，年仅36岁。

人们的愿望很朴素，谁当官为民办实事，人们自然记得他。兹以诗作《八月渔棉会》记下我的感动：横山八月渔棉会，歌舞欢游庆喜年。县令遗德谁肯忘，贤行惠语代相传。

The October Golden Week this year was an eight-day vacation. On the last day of the vacation， I visited Hengshan Village in the east of Yinzhou District， part of Ningbo， a harbor city in eastern Zhejiang.

The village is named after the three hills along the coast. The three hills resemble a straight horizontal line in a birds-eye view. I had wanted to visit Hengshan for a few reasons. The first reason was Grandma Peach. She is a native of Hengshan Village. She enrolled into Hangzhou University in the 1980s and she worked as a teacher at a pharmacy academy in Ningbo after graduation from Hangzhou. When I met her， she was an associate professor. Nowadays， she takes care of her granddaughter. One of the things she teaches the granddaughter is the names of plants in the residential compound where she lives. And many children in the community join her when she and her granddaughter take a walk in the compound. Education is part of the lifestyle of Hengshan Village. Four children of a family in the village are PhDs. There are professors and medical doctors who grew up in the village. Grandma Peach and I came to her home village because she wanted to set up a studio of natural history so that the children in the village can learn about nature and because I wanted to take a look.

Hengshan Village has a long history. In the Northern Song （960-1127）， the village housed a tide-watching station. In the Ming Dynasty， a beacon tower was set up on the top of one of the hills against which the village nestles， as the village is positioned at a strategic place where pirates from the sea would choose for invasion. Part of the village was a battalion. The beacon tower is no more， but on the previous site of the tower is an observation platform which functioned for years after 1949.

There is now a paved trail through the three hills. The trail now attracts tourists and outdoor sports enthusiasts. I found it a great pleasure to walk the trail as there are many tall trees. From the platform I saw from afar a long huge bridge crossing the Xiangshan Harbor.

From the platform my friend saw the village ferry dock and became excited. It turned out that she took a ferry boat from the dock more than 30 years before. The dock is not a busy ferry place any more since the bridge is now in operation.

The beaches along the coastline of the village have been developed for a long while. In history， some flatlands were turned into farms for cotton crops. Some beaches along the village are now turned into ponds for fish farming. The local people in this part of Yinzhou district celebrate harvest in lunar August. The annual festivity started over 300 years ago. It is now listed as a provincial cultural legacy.

The celebration is composed of various events： a sacrificial ceremony， opera shows， and a parade of decorated boats and ships on the sea. Part of the festival is dedicated to the memory of Shi Pei， a governor who crashed a rebellion and protected people and Yang Yi， governor of Yinxian County who had dredged rivers and built six flood sluices. Yang worked hard for 29 months as governor before he dropped dead at the age of 36 from overwork.