山水童话 大美云和

2021-05-31 22:34金少策叶小平
文化交流 2021年3期
关键词:长汀梯田景区

金少策 叶小平

瓯江上游,云和风光大开大合。无论泛舟湖上,还是水边闲居,每一回头,都仿佛融入了瓯江山水的余韵。从浙江省丽水市出发,行50公里,便来到了云和县。此时,水流湍急的瓯江也变得温柔起来,蜿蜒至云和境内,与山川峡谷中形成了一条山水画廊。

得益于好山好水好生态,云和旅游产业取得了大发展。2014年以来,当地政府围绕“一城一湖一梯田多乡村”定位,立足生态优势,以山水为底色,以童话为主题,以浓重笔触抹开了一幅“山水童话之城”的曼妙画卷。

目前,云和国家级生态乡镇比例达80%、省级生态乡镇比例达100%,连续15年生态环境状况级别为优;创成国家重点生态功能区、“中国天然氧吧”、浙江省生态文明建设示范县等;获评2020年省级新时代美丽乡村示范县、“中国特色旅游最佳湿地”,被农业农村部列为“中国美丽田园”和“国家湿地公园”试点,被美国CNN评为中国最美的40个景点之一。

云和梯田 四季各异

云和梯田最早开发于唐初,总面积51平方公里,主要分布在云和县崇头镇周围高山上,海拔跨度为200~1400多米,垂直高度1200多米,是华东最大的梯田群,素有“千年历史、千米落差、千层梯田”之称,被摄影界誉为“中国最美梯田”。

此处,日出时,红霞满天、云雾滚动、竹影婆娑,身临其境,如入世外桃源;满坡的梯田,波光粼粼,金灿灿、亮闪闪,好似一架架直上云霄的天梯,一派美不胜收的壮丽画卷;日落时,山村、树林、牧童披着金色的纱巾,千山万壑,如诗如画,让人赞不绝口。

云和梯田一年四季景观各异:春来水满田畴,如串串银链挂山间;夏日佳禾吐翠,似层层绿浪排苍穹;金秋,稻穗沉甸甸,像座座金塔顶玉宇;隆冬,雪兆丰年,若片片白玉砌云端。其中,“云海奇观”和“冰雪世界”是云和梯田的一大特色与亮点(云和梯田可以说是世界上仅有的拥有雪景的梯田)。

赏绿水青山,更要品味风土人情。云和梯田开犁习俗由来已久,有史料记载,早年云和衙门的官员每年春耕开始之际,都要到城郊的“先农坛”,由县官带头亲自下田耕地,以示官府对农业生产的重视。云和梯田开犁节约定俗成的一整套祭祀仪式完整地留存至今,祭祀场面隆重,表演大多较自由,集祭神与娱人于一体。

目前云和梯田景区顺利通过文旅部景观质量评审,成为改革开放以来全省取得5A级景区创建“入场券”的第22家景区。梯田创5A项目也被列入省文旅厅与丽水市文旅金名片共建合作项目,成为省文旅厅重点支持的5A创建项目。

为了让游客更便捷地感受到山清水秀的云和盛景,云和梯田一级游客接待中心正在紧张有序地建设中。该项目位于崇头镇梅源村大丘田区块,总用地面积约114亩,总建筑面积约26066平方米,总投资约1.5亿元,建设集游客咨询集散、梯田博物馆、餐饮购物、旅游宣传、停车接待和医疗服务为一体的旅游综合服务中心,配套500个生态停车位。该项目于2019年6月开工建设,计划于2021年11月完工,目前已完成主楼主体工程,正在进行外立面幕墙装饰装修。

乡村振兴 长汀样本

长汀建村已有400多年历史,据族谱记载,长汀祖先于明代从福建汀州武平县迁居到此,因此移用长汀县之名作为村名。走进长汀村,一边是古朴静谧的农房,白墙黛瓦,一边是时尚休闲的沙滩,阳光、蓝天、白云,沙滩、沙雕、碧水,沙滩上随处可见兴奋的小孩、玩自拍的年轻人,使得小村生机勃勃。

2016年初,石塘镇政府在充分调研的基础上,根据长汀村湖面开阔、有海的视角、水岸线长且水位稳定等特点,决定无中生有造“海景”。当年5月1日,投资200万元,长约1公里、平均宽度为30米的长汀沙滩建成迎客,以“新奇特”成为省内外游客持续关注的热点,并成為全市首批AAA级景区村。

长汀沙滩带动了乡村振兴、村民致富。长汀村现任村委会主任徐宇军贷款50多万元,开起了全村首家农家乐民宿,做起了第一个吃螃蟹的人,第一年收入便达60多万元。在他的带动下,村民纷纷回乡兴办农家乐、民宿和从事沙滩服务行业。

村民王秀华在北京打工多年,租住的是房东陆红波的房子。有一天,王秀华对陆红波说,自己的家乡长汀村非常漂亮,建议陆红波抽空去玩一趟。陆红波果然去了,并被长汀村的青山绿水所吸引。之后,陆红波主动提出租下王秀华在长汀的老屋并改建成了民宿。

如今,全村农家乐、民宿从零起步已发展到13家。之前是80%的村民在外务工创业,现在则是80%的村民回乡创业,村民年收入从1.4万元增加到3.4万元,已累计接待游客300多万人次,实现乡村旅游收入4500多万元,村集体累计创收430万元。

2018年,长汀村又建成了游船码头、游客接待中心、生态停车场、沙滩栈道等项目,全面提升景区旅游设施和功能,一举创成国家AAA级景区。针对村域生产生活基础设施和旅游配套设施存在的不足,长汀村今年还启动了长汀休闲驿站、长汀沙滩帐篷酒店、长汀到北溪桥环湖绿道等龙头项目建设,正在加快推进长汀村赵岸至景区道路拓宽工程、长汀至大源口古道等项目,打造更加开放的美丽经济交通走廊。

玫瑰小镇 浪漫赤石

赤石乡位于云和县西北部,距县城15公里,紧邻龙泉、松阳,乡域面积约124平方公里。八百里瓯江,在仙霞岭与洞宫山脉碰撞形成的褶皱中一路向东、奔流入海,将赤石乡一分为二、南北呼应。

这里自然资源丰度极佳、特色鲜明,品质优良,是一座名副其实的天然大氧吧。赤石“玫瑰小镇”,是远近闻名的网红打卡地。小镇的大街小巷、房前屋后种满了1000多种玫瑰,一年四季,季季有玫瑰,季季有花香。花季时节,整个小镇仿佛掩映在玫瑰花海中,浸泡在玫瑰暗香里,引得游人纷至沓来。

望乡楼,矗立在小镇临湖至高点,登斯楼,可眺秋水长天、鸥鹭轻翔;可闻晨钟暮鼓、渔舟唱晚;可忆水下故园、峥嵘岁月。七星岛,由云和湖上的七个小山峰组成,呈北斗七星状排列,相传北宋剑川县令李凤,致仕途中泊舟七星岛下的赤足山,见此地岩色皆赤,风景绝佳,遂定居于此,命名赤石。龙岩洞,位于百米悬崖之下,洞的右侧是“龙岩飞瀑”,瀑布高28米、宽8米,从天然峡口喷薄下注,犹如白练天降,飞珠溅玉。夏洞天龙母洞,为天然岩穴,状如倒置的畚斗,相传为龙母所居,洞内供奉石刻龙母仙娘神像一尊,有碑刻一方,均为清代制品。麻垟季家古宅,建于清光绪十五年(1889),由当地财主季向德及其4个儿子所建,共5幢,整体建筑为院落式结构,木作精良,雕梁画栋,古朴大方。

赤石景区,是连接龙泉山、武夷山风景名胜区与云和梯田、古堰画乡、雁荡山、楠溪江风景名胜区的中间枢纽,区位优势得天独厚。近年来,赤石乡成功打造“浪漫婚纱”美丽乡村风景线,积极培育农家乐、民宿产业,大力发展乡村休闲旅游,助推乡村振兴,以云和湖有机鱼为食材,打响“赤石鱼头”品牌。汤白、肉嫩、味美的“赤石鱼头”,是“云味十二道”的主打菜品,曾走上央视《走遍中国》节目,誉满全国。而“汀州小吃”,是赤石的另一种传统美食,另一种乡愁。

佛儿岩景 雾溪山控

佛儿岩景区分布于安溪畲族乡和雾溪畲族乡境内,是云和县主要风景名胜之一,由叮当岩、佛儿岩、天窗洞、百丈岩、一线天、天水窟等岩石组成。区域面积5平方公里,东西宽2500米,南北宽2000 米,岩石群景点单体分布在佛儿岩山山脊和两侧山坡,最高海拔785米,相对高度550米,其中以叮当岩、佛儿岩最为著名。

旧志载:“佛儿岩在县西二十里,上有石卓然乔耸,佛髻宛然。明徐应亨诗‘雾溪山控佛儿岩是也。”天窗洞则为堆石洞,位于山脊尾部山巅处,由数石堆积而成,其中三石堆砌成一高2米、宽1.5米、深2米的天然六角窗洞,形如悬空天镜,可与仙都“仙女照镜”相媲美。居高临下,煞是壮观。

景区东坡为翠绿的毛竹林,西坡为针阔混交林,竹林、树丛间掩藏着无数个岩石群,如成群的野兽在竹海中觅食、栖息、奔跑。登临景区,雾溪水库、安溪乡、云和县城尽收眼帘。游玩后可到山脚黄处畬族村体验纯朴的畲族风情,也可在农家乐用餐。

佛儿岩景区是云和旅游跨越发展“3610”工程中6个4A级别景区的重要内容,是云和景区战略发展至关重要的一步。景区按照“一心一核一镇四村一道”总体布局,以“巨石奇观·畲乡圣山”为主题定位,以坪垟岗江南畲族风情文化村、黄处畲寨与佛儿岩奇石景观为载体,致力打造一个集圣山祈福、文化休闲、山地运动、古道游赏等为一体的畲乡文化旅游示范样板和国家4A级旅游景区。

十里云河 奇雾锁湖

云和湖,位于云和县北部,是紧水滩、石塘、玉溪水电站建成后形成的仙宫湖、龙廷湖、玉溪湖的总称,为省级森林公园。云和湖跨越莲都、云和、龙泉三县(区)市,湖长90公里,水域面积50多平方公里,云和段有库湾31个、大小岛屿16个。

湖区四周有“夏洞天”“龙眼洞”“九潭十八湾”等名山洞府;有“插花殿”、“魁星楼”、“官坑殿”、“蝉岩寺”等古刹名楼;宋元古窑遗址和出土國家一级文物战国时期的宝剑等古文化遗址;有浙南第一坝——三心双曲大坝全国第一座自动电脑管理的石塘电站及公路隧道等现代建设成果;有别具一格的畲族村寨和客家文化风情;有锦屏山周恩来总理视察纪念碑和方山岭抗战遗迹等革命纪念地和爱国主义教育基地。湖中有“开心岛”“聚仙岛”“七星岛”等大小岛屿,两岸茂林修竹,以针阔混交林为主,森林覆盖率在80%以上。

云和湖是浙江省第二大有机鱼养殖基地,所处的瓯江水系有鱼类111种,隶属13目33科83属,其中主要经济鱼类有鲤科喀氏倒刺钯(军鱼)、台湾突吻鱼(鱼姑)、温州光唇钯(石斑鱼)、鲤鱼、鲫鱼、草鱼、青鱼等以及鲶鱼、鳗、乌鳢、桂鱼、黄颡鱼、香鱼、瓯江鼋等33种。

云和湖景色层叠,波光、云影、舟船、水鸟、木排、竹筏风光和堤岸、公路、汽车和村庄、田野、群山组成淳朴、秀逸、舒展、清丽的空间格局。在寒冬季节,云和湖水由于湖坝的高差产生上下湖水温的明显差异,在早晨即会有层层浓雾笼罩在湖面上,远看似云海般,成一奇物景色,故有“云和湖奇雾”之美誉,是游览、度假、避暑、探幽、休闲的胜地。

2011年,云和县在云和湖建成以水电科普游览、休闲垂钓、度假养生为主的综合型景区——云和湖仙宫景区,其中包括以水电科普为主题的观光游览线,以垂钓、水上运动为主题的仙宫渔乐线,以瓯江帆影、佛教文化和船帮文化为主题的“十里云河”游线。景区内有浙西南第一座无动力滑索,国内第一座可随水位自动伸缩的仙宫浮桥等水上娱乐项目,是丽水市摄影家协会摄影创作基地和自驾车旅游指定景区。2011年12月,仙宫景区被评为国家AAAA级旅游景区。

“Peaceful clouds”. That is how CNN explained the meaning of Yunhe, when it listed the county as one of the “40 beautiful places to visit in China” back in 2012. Covering an area of 984 square kilometers, Yunhe county is 50 kilometers southwest of Lishui city in southwestern Zhejiang. With the Oujiang River winding through Yunhes misty mountains, hills and valleys, travelers will be forgiven for believing they have walked into a dreamy painting.

Thanks to its well-preserved ecology, Yunhe has not only witnessed booming development in tourism, but won a series of accolades in the process, including “Natural Oxygen Zone of China”, “Best Wetland of Chinas Featured Tourism”, and “Chinas Beautiful Countryside”, among others.

More than Scenery: Yunhe Rice Terraces

Yunhe rice terraces have been home to farmers since the early Tang dynasty (618-907), covering an area of 51 square kilometers, the largest in East China. Rising up to 1,400 meters and dropping to as low as 200 meters, they are regarded as one of Chinas most beautiful rice terraces by photographers. No wonder: people can easily capture a variety of perfect shots, from any angle, on a single day, and in different reasons. In fact, Yunhe is the only place in the world where snowy rice terraces can be seen.

But these rice terraces are more than just scenery, they are also essential to the lives of local farmers and their folk customs. The ploughing ceremony, for example, at the Meiyuan Terrace in Yunhe during mangzhong, or Grain in Ear (the ninth solar term in the Chinese lunar calendar), marks the first plough of the year. A tradition that has been practiced in Yunhe for about 1,000 years, it is performed annually to pray for a good harvest in the forthcoming year.

Rural Revitalization: The Changting Model

When Xu Yujun borrowed half a million yuan to start to build the first guesthouse in Changting village in October 2015, he was not sure whether the “gamble” would pay off. But within a year, the revenue already reached 600,000. In retrospect, Xu, who is also the Party secretary of Changting village, seemed destined for success. With more developed transportation and stronger government support for village tourism, all the 400-year-old Changting village needed was a nudge.

In early 2016, just a few months after Xus move, the local government began creating a “seaside-style beach” along part of the Yunhe Lake in the village. The one-kilometer man-made beach opened to tourists on May 1, 2016 and proved to be a big hit. And for Xu, the rest, as they say, is history. Over the next few years, more tourist facilities and services have been added and fellow villagers have been following Xus footsteps. By now, Changting boasts 13 guesthouses, 80% of the villagers who used to work in cities have returned to start a business, and their annual incomes have almost tripled. More plans to upgrade Changtings tourism are in store and a bright future undoubtedly awaits.

A Sea of Roses: Chishi Township

The stronger the scent of romance, the nearer one comes to Chishi, a small town about 15 kilometers to the northwest of Yunhe county proper. More than 1,000 different types of roses have been planted along the main thoroughfare, in the alleys, around the houses…. When they bloom, the whole town is bathed in a sea of roses, their fragrance attracting and intoxicating throngs of tourists. Over the years, Chishi has become a must-visit for social media influencers and particularly those couples who seek to capture the best moments for their wedding photos.

As the Oujiang River cuts the town into the northern and southern parts, Chishi is also known for its natural beauty. Ascend the Building of Looking Homeward (Wangxiang Lou) on the lakeside, and enjoy the splendid view; land on Seven Stars Islands (Qixing Dao), seven small peaks in the shape of the Big Dipper across the Yunhe Lake, and appreciate the red crags, which is how the town Chishi (literally “red rock”) was named; and “plunge” into the Dragon Cave (Longyan Dong), over 100 meters below a cliff, and brave yourself  for the 28-meter-high Dragon Waterfall… Finally, never forget the food, especially the now nationally recognized “Chishi Fish Head”.

Boulders and Crags: Foeryan Scenic Area

Spread between Anxi She ethnic township and Wuxi She ethnic township, Foeryan Scenic Area is one of the main scenic spots in Yunhe county. Covering an area of five square kilometers, it features a cluster of boulders and crags, some of which can be as high as 550 meters and rise to 785 meters above the sea level. Among them, the Dingdang Crag(Dingdangyan) and the Foer Crag (Foeryan, hence the name of the scenic area) are the most famous.

Groups of small boulders and crags are hidden in the bamboo and mixed coniferous forest on the east and west slopes of the area, as if packs of wild animals are foraging, resting and running. On top of the sceneries, tourists can get a taste of the ethnic customs of the She people in the nearby Huangchu She village.

Misty Clouds: Yunhe Lake

In the north of Yunhe county lies Yunhe Lake. A provincial forest park, Yunhe Lake is in fact a general name for the three bodies of water of Xiangong Lake, Longting Lake and Yuxi Lake, which covers an area of more than 50 square kilometers. It is the second largest breeding base of organic fishes in Zhejiang province, home to 111 different kinds of fishes.

During winter mornings, layers upon layers of thick fog would shroud the lake, thanks to differences in water temperature between the dammed upper part and the lower part. From afar, it is as if the lake is floating right below a sea of clouds, creating a view only to be found in a dreamscape.

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