原宿风潮 永远年轻,永远忠于自我

2017-04-26 06:25
空中之家 2017年5期
关键词:渐变色风潮潮流

原宿风潮 永远年轻,永远忠于自我

Harajuku Trend:Freedom to Dress

Right outside the seventh stop of Tokyo’s busiest metro line, the Yamanote Line, you’ll be amazed. People dress themselves in styles like “Lolita”, “Furyo”, “Dark Style” etc., proudly demonstrating their free will on one of the most judgment-free streets in Japan.

Text by Monkey Translation by Susi Yuan Photos by Getty, Chuck Pedro

A girl hides behind a mannequin in front of her shop on Takeshita-dori.

自由,是这里最重要且唯一的时尚基因。

从东京最繁忙的通勤铁路山手线的第七站出来后,你脱口而出的第一个词有很大概率会是:Amazing!Lolita、暴走族、不良风、黑暗系……如同踏入潮流圈的武林大会,每个从你身边路过的人仿佛都自成一派的表达着自己的时尚绝学。

Mannequin decked out in some crazy fashion in the backstreets of Harajuku.

This metro station leading to the outdoor fashion stage we just talked about is called Harajuku. Around here, you can witness a full bite of Tokyo's street culture.

“Harajuku is the only neighbourhood in Japan that is able to foster fashion”. In the 1970s, Harajuku gained its status as the fashion leader of Japan through the recognition of multiple local fashion magazines. After going through the periods of imitating the West and the “Takenoko-zoku”teenage fashion, the word “Harajuku” has now become the synonym of unique personality and originality.

Clothes of contrasting colours and various hair colours are the typical features of the Harajuku style, and it was once mentioned in the same breath with the alternative culture. But the core of the Harajuku style is more focused on the attitude of “you are what you wear”. This attitude of being your unique true self has set many young souls free, giving them an opportunity to put on clothes other than shirts and ties.

Mineoka Namiko

这个地铁站叫做原宿,由此辐射开的一片街区被称为“年轻人之街”,是东京街头文化的重要代表之一。

“原宿是日本唯一一个孕育时尚的街区”,自上世纪70年代通过时尚杂志宣传而占据了日本潮流领导地位的原宿形象,经历了模仿西洋时期,“竹笋族”少年潮时期后,如今成为了张扬个性、与众不同的代名词。

色彩冲击的服装与七彩斑斓的发色是大众对原宿风的普遍认知,也曾一度将其与非主流相提并论。但原宿风的核心更在于一种“穿着即自我”的态度,这份敢做自己、敢不从众的呈现也让原宿风近年来拥有了更强更广的影响力。

没有风格,也不被定义,从竹下通到里原宿,数以千计的个性小店店主,独立品牌设计师与肆意行走街头的潮人们为“原宿风”提供着一直被模仿,无法去预测的时尚活力。

Anji of Salz Tokyo is seen on the street in Harajuku during Tokyo Fashion Week wearing a vintage antique kimono in Tokyo

Two young guys with cool haircuts on Omotesando-dori near the intersection of Meijidori, the busiest centre of Harajuku.

Yuri Nakagawa

Ayumi Seto poses alongside a wall on Melrose Avenue

Young girls with dyed hair walk out of Harajuku Station.

Model∶ Sumiya Naoki Hat∶ HEART MADE FACTROY Bag∶ UIYI

How to blend in Harajuku

1.The Harajuku style is not confined by colourfulness. However, collaging colours, contrasting colours and graduated colours are certainly a quick way to help you stand out from the crowd.

2. Costumes with more layers

3. Eyeballs, starry skies and equilateral triangles are among the most common elements in the Harajuku style. However, how to creatively match them is the key.

4. Dare to be creative and original.

5. Vintage has made its way time back to Harajuku. Classic items that are now out of production fit in perfectly in the Harajuku neighbourhood. One needs not worry about “outfit clash” by wearing vintage.

6. If you want to keep up with the most authentic Harajuku trends, then you wouldn't want to miss the street snap magazines and websites. The photographers of the FRUiTS (a fashion magazine for girls) and Tune (for boys) lurk in the streets of Harajuku every day to hunt for the latest fashion materials. Next time you pass by Tokyo, put on your most daring outfit and, who knows, you might become the next Harajuku trendsetter!

Sandals∶ Claire's

Second floor of the Design Festa Art Gallery. Anyone can pay to have their work shown in this gallery.

六个锦囊,让你成为行走的原宿icon

1.原宿风不一定要五颜六色,但对于色彩的混搭与配合十分注重。掌握好拼贴色、撞色与渐变色的运用能让你从人潮中迅速脱颖而出。

2.穿出层次感,分层的衣服可以让你混搭更多、更广泛的风格。

3.眼球、星空、正三角是原宿风里最常见的几个元素,如何将简单的元素搭出新意是原宿潮人们永恒的思考题。

4.标新立异是重点,很多人在买了素材和衣服以后,还会对其进行缝制改装,既能与别人不同,也能更为符合自己的审美。

5.近年来原宿较为盛行的风潮是古着混搭,经典而又不再生产的古着单品完美契合着“我就是我,是不撞衫的烟火”的原宿style。

6.想捕捉最正点的原宿风格,街拍杂志与网站是一个不容错过的选择。由日本街拍界教父青木正一创办的《FRUiTS》(女生版)与《Tune》(男生版)的摄影师们每天都会“埋伏”在原宿街头寻找素材。下一个引领亚洲时尚的人,会是某天路过原宿街头的你么?

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