中国传统镶滚工艺的现代化创新

吴晔旎　李欣华

摘要： 传统镶滚工艺作为中国传统服饰中常见的装饰工艺手法，具有鲜明的时代特征与文化审美价值。随着工业化的发展，镶滚手工艺逐渐退出历史舞台，需要开辟新的途径来适应现代化转型。文章解读了传统镶滚工艺的种类及在传统凤尾裙中的设计运用。从现代化设计的角度对传统镶滚工艺现代化创新方式进行了研究，提出传统镶滚凤尾裙在多元化环境下的现代化发展方式与工艺技法，在保留传统风格的前提下镶滚工艺得以创新和发展。研究结果显示，文章提出的方法使得镶滚工艺在凤尾裙中的呈现方式更加丰富，制作工序更加简便。

关键词： 镶滚工艺；凤尾裙；清代裙飾；制作技艺；现代化发展

中图分类号： TS941.2；K892.23文献标志码： B文章编号： 10017003（2018）04006506引用页码： 041201

Abstract： As a common decorating technique in traditional Chinese dress， the traditional mosaic and piped edge technology has distinctive characteristics of the times and cultural aesthetic value. With the development of industrialization， mosaic and piped edge technology gradually steps down from the stage of history， and a new way is needed to adapt to modern transformation. The types of traditional mosaic and piped edge and its application in design of traditional phoenixtail skirt were interpreted in this paper. The modern innovation mode of traditional mosaic and piped edge was studied from the perspective of modern design. Besides， modern development mode and process technique of traditional mosaic and piped phoenixtail skirt under diversified environment are put forward. Traditional mosaic and piped edge technology could innovate and develop under the precondition of reserving traditional style. The experimental results show that the method in this paper makes the ways of presenting mosaic and piped edge in the phoenixtail skirt more abundant and makes the process simpler and more convenient.

Key words： mosaic and piped edge technology； phoenixtail skirt； skirt in Qing dynasty； production techniques； modern development

2017年3月12日国务院发布《中国传统工艺振兴计划》，指出要“认真汲取中华优秀传统文化的思想精华和道德精髓”“处理好继承和创造性发展的关系，重点做好创造性转化和创新性发展”。传统镶滚工艺作为中国传统服饰装饰工艺的一部分，呈现出中华民族服饰文化独特的美学思想。发掘和运用传统镶滚工艺所包含的文化元素和工艺理念，丰富镶滚工艺的设计题材和产品品种，使传统镶滚工艺在现代化生活中得到新的广泛应用，能够更好满足人民群众消费升级的需求。对传统镶滚工艺的现代化创新研究，有助于进一步继承和弘扬中华民族宝贵的传统文化，提高民族自尊心和凝聚力。……