东亚文化视域下日本最古绣佛工艺品考论

林静静

摘要： 奈良国立博物馆馆藏《天寿国绣帐》是日本现存最古的刺绣工艺品，代表了当时最高水平的染色技术与刺绣技术。通过对天寿国绣帐的绣法、材质、图像的分析，可明晰日本早期纺织工艺概况与服制规范，探讨绣帐的艺术文献价值。研究认为：东亚地区制作、礼赞绣佛的礼佛行为具有一定的普遍性，宗教题材刺绣的传播是东亚早期刺绣技艺传承的重要推动力量;日本受益于中国大陆的文明影响，公元7世纪贵族阶层开始使用工艺较为复杂的绢、罗、丝等纤维制品，社会各阶层服制趋于固定;贵族女性是早期刺绣技艺的主要传承者，早期刺绣技法相对单一，此后日本刺绣的题材内容与表现技法逐渐呈现和风意匠，形成强烈的日本审美意趣，走向与输出母国不同的装饰之路。

关键词： 东亚文化;日本;染色;刺绣;绣佛;工艺品

Abstract： Embroidered Curtain Depicting Paradise（Tenjukoku Shucho） in Nara National Museum is Japans oldest existing embroidery handicraft， representing the highest level of dyeing and embroidery technology at that time. By analyzing the embroidering method， materials and images of Tenjukoku Shucho， the general situation of early Japanese textile processing and clothing standard were clarified， and the artistic literature value of embroidery tent were discussed. The research suggests that， in East Asia， the activities of making， worshipping and praising embroidered Buddha are very popular to some extent， and spreading embroidery with religious subjects was an important driving force for the inheritance of embroidery techniques in early East Asia. Japan benefited from the influence of civilization of Mainland China. In the 7th century， the aristocracy began to use Juan， Luo， silk and other fiber products with complicated technology， and the clothing of all social classes tended to be fixed. Aristocratic women were the main inheritors of the early embroidery techniques. In the early stage， the embroidery techniques were relatively single. As time went by， the theme， content and expression techniques of Japanese embroidery gradually presented Japanese style and a strong aesthetic taste of Japan， which led to a different way of decoration from that of the home country.

Key words： East Asian culture; Japan; dyeing; embroidery; embroidered Buddha; handicraft article

中国学术界较早关注日本刺绣的当属杨夏在《南洋劝业会研究报告书》中所做《刺绣论》[1]，文中评价“日本绣品日渐发达、实驾中国之上”“日本尚刺绣而富于美丽的布置，吾国实逊之”“日人绣品其设色布置固精致可爱，特物质工料不及中国远甚”。他认为日本绣品胜于中国主要是设色与布置，而运针用线则不如中国刺绣细腻。与中国刺绣讲求细密无痕，以平、齐、和、光、顺、匀为上的技艺标准不同的是，日本刺绣有一显著特点——追求装饰效果。日本刺绣线多用整线，甚至用多根线合用，实用性强，不拘泥劈丝的粗细，因此极富装饰趣味;此外擅用金银线，且绣与画结合或绣与印结合，画与印铺地，更为凸显刺绣。……