日落深处是千岛

陈富强

观千岛湖日落有些偶然，是在临湖酒店的室外泳池平台上。酒店所在地最初是一座独立的无名小岛，有一座桥与陆地相连。岛上设施依水而建，临湖的房间，也可眺宽阔的湖面，远处的山一层一层，浓淡如墨，被湖水温柔地包围，这些山，原先都是峻岭，湖水渐渐从它们的山脚开始向上涨，那些山村的房子沉入湖底，房子的主人远走他乡，山便成了岛。

一

时近黄昏，秋色正好。泳池平台上，几株桂树花已落，看似凌乱实际上很有规则的墙壁上长满攀援植物，且花开得正艳。晚风也很适宜，吹皱一湖好水，尤其是芦苇，在风中摇曳着，其姿态之媚，恰到好处地展现出千岛的仪态。平台上聚集起一些人，他们视线所及，是一轮巨大的太阳，悬在天边，悬在山峦之上。太阳已经没有刺眼的光线，整个圆形的轮廓显得通红，仿佛晚餐喝了一些千岛米酒，醉眼朦胧，慵懒地倚在天幕下，等待暮色苍茫。

这时，我忽然意识到，这轮太阳，很快就要下沉了，沉到山后，沉入湖底酣睡一晚，她的身躯沉重地一落，今天就再也看不见。我赶紧奔回房间，取了相机，回到平台，凭栏远眺，期待日落的壮阔而辽远。

那些岛，和湖周边的群山融为一体。岛的形体要清秀一些，而群山则巍峨，并且连绵。山影由近及远，由浓及淡，最远处，是天边。此刻，天边正燃烧着烈焰，云也多姿多彩了，倒映入湖，水面就染成了一片红。浓与淡交错，天与湖，山与水，也纠缠在一起，不肯分离的样子。山峦的阴影十分明显了，坚硬的山，此刻也显得有些娇羞，仰望着太阳，含情脉脉。天地间，安静至极，如果不观看落日的人，湖畔的静，就有些寂然。看着眼前的一切，倒让我想起林徽因的一句话：“温柔要有，但不是妥协，我们要在安静中，不慌不忙的坚强。”温柔的是云彩，是湖水，而坚强的自然就是群山。山不语，也安如磐石。

二

太阳渐渐向山巅滑去。我几乎能听见太阳下滑的声音。有谁能够挺住落日的重量？显然应该是山的怀抱。所以，那些一座一座紧紧相连的尖峰就是群山的臂膀了，它们伸出的，是无穷的力量。

落日愈接近山巅，似乎下滑的速度就愈快。色彩的变化也愈来愈明显，鲜艳的红，现在已经被渐浓的山色洇成了深红，湖面也骤然暗淡许多，而山的轮廓则显得庄重而伟岸。我想，这真是一场等待已久的恋爱，太阳决定将自己最辉煌的一瞬献给山脉，她的下坠就义无反顾。

终于看见浑圆的落日边沿与山尖相触，犹如初吻，落日含羞的模样实在俏丽。稳重的山尖瞬间涂上一层薄薄的光晕，仿佛为了迎接美丽的新娘，在棱角分明的躯体铺上一层绵软的毯子，喷出光芒万丈。

落日在与山尖最初的相触后，下滑的速度明显加快。她的形状也开始变幻，因为山峰的不规则，落日隐入山后，巨大的轮廓就残缺了。随着下滑幅度的加大，落日由大半个圆变为半圆，小半个圆，直至一轮圆润的弧线。整个下坠的过程，落日显然掌握了主动，颇有些急不可耐，她奋不顾身一头扎入群山的迫切全部倒映入水。此时，日落处，有一圈巨大的光晕，好似一个记号，天边的云也终于淡去，被暮霭笼罩。

而湖面一如既往的淡然，风吹起的涟漪在日落时分也显得微不足道。偶尔有一条船驶过，船身若犁，划开湖面，波浪把天上最后一丝云彩也搅碎了。黄昏消逝，薄暮降临。我回望归于寂静的桂树，只剩一树一树的影子。岛屿也很快被夜色吞噬，而群山，也醉于落日，无声无息。我问自己，落日去了哪里？我亲眼所见，当然去了山的怀里。然而，心里却有另外一个声音响起来，告诉我落日其实沉入湖底去了，就像群山，它们的身躯也被湖水荡漾。原来，在千岛湖，最宽阔的，还是一湖清水，正是应了林徽因的话：落日与山脉，与湖水，不是妥协，它们在一起，是自然的融合，是爱情的故事，在无边的安静中，选择不慌不忙地坚强。

三

我踱回房间，站在窗前，天色渐渐暗了，深了，小岛也瞌睡了，窗外的芦苇也看不清她们纤细的模样。我顺手从书桌上取过一本书，是《国家特别行动：新安江大移民迟到五十年的报告》。此书作者童禅福，是新安江水库移民，他最后一次回望家乡村口那棵老樟树时年龄不足10岁，他在高处，看见库区的水漫上，他的祖屋渐渐沉入水中。这个画面，成为他日后遍访新安江各地移民写成此书的重要动力。

我的同事李斌是淳安人，他有可能是新安江库区最小的移民。李斌曾经对我说过：“我出生时，新安江水电站工程已进入尾声，大堤工程竣工，准备蓄水。库区内淳安、遂安两县30万老百姓在政府组织下，向江西、安徽以及省内的桐庐、建德、开化、常山等地迁移。我们全家4口（父亲、母亲、哥哥和母亲肚子里的我）也在我出生的半年前从县府所在地贺城迁移到了地势较高的临歧镇。”李斌所说的贺城，随着库区蓄水，也沉入水底。李斌说，他每次回千岛湖，总会在湖边望夕阳，他总觉得，湖底的那些老宅还在，夕阳浸入湖里，能照到他家的屋子，很多鱼，在门窗里游进游出。

我认识的新安江移民和他们的后代，不止童禅福和李斌。小方每年总会回淳安老家好多次，她的父母还在那儿。当然，她也出生在那里。她的老家姜家以前叫郁社，改名姜家是接纳库区移民后的事。郁社地势高，在库区淹没的红线以上，所以得以保存。姜家区域内，后来建了座文渊狮城，局部复原了新安江水库截流前两座古城狮城与贺城中的一座，即狮城。电视台组织过一次水下探险，发现古城那些雕刻精美的门板、光滑平整的城墙，甚至木梁、楼梯、砖墙全都完好无损，它们在水中已经安静地沉睡60年，相比古城一千年的历史，60年是短暂的。但是，它们曾经的繁华，被水面覆盖，落日的光芒也曾穿透湖面，照彻狮城。

文渊狮城建有奎文塔。登塔一望，千岛湖部分山水映入眼底。小姜告诉我，奎文塔上无论观日出还是日落，都堪称千岛一绝。可惜我来去匆匆，日出之后到的姜家，赶在日落之前回到酒店，终于看见千岛湖的太阳，是如何一点一点落进湖里、沉入水中。那么，湖底的古城、村庄、老宅和纵横的阡陌，也一定能感受到太阳的温度，不再那么孤单和寒冷了吧。

四

2020年的雨季特别长，雨水也特别多。新安江上游，大水倒灌安徽境内部分縣乡，电站大坝水位也超出库容警戒线，泄洪不可避免。这也是大坝建成60年来第一次九孔全开泄洪，其下泄流量，半小时即可达一个西湖。大坝下游的富春江、钱塘江水位迅速上涨，远超历史纪录，尤其是建德境内的江段，水流湍急，声震如雷，颇有“云青青兮欲雨，水澹澹兮生烟”的气势。

泄洪數日，千岛湖水位回落到警戒线以下，九孔关闭其五孔，只留三孔继续泄洪时，天色放晴，一道彩虹悬在大坝泄洪孔上空。我的朋友，航拍爱好者海平拍到了洪水下泄入江上空的彩虹。他将照片发给我时，我不得不惊叹这罕见的自然奇观。

与别处泄洪时通常水质混浊不同，新安江库区是一个著名品牌山泉水的水源地，下泄的水流是纯粹的蓝色，而下泄的洪水与彩虹出现在同一个画面里，可能是大坝泄洪时最难得一见的景观。

我问他，有没有拍到落日，他说没有，但他看到云层里的太阳了。不过，在他看来，他拍到彩虹是在下午4时许，那么彩虹就是日落前阳光与水滴在空中的相遇。

这应该是这个雨季千岛湖最美丽的相遇了。

从前，太阳落下是千山，如今，日落深处是千岛。自然与世事的沧桑，总在日出与日落之间。

It was by accident that I saw the setting sun at dusk on the 1，000-Isle Lake. I saw it from a viewing platform by an outdoor swimming pool of a hotel. The hotel nestled on a nameless isle in the lake， connected with the land by a bridge. Lakeside rooms of the hotel offer views of the waters and the skies. The lake is a manmade reservoir. The so-called 1，000 isles are tops of the mountains submerged in the reservoir.

It was an autumn day. Two or three sweet-osmanthus trees near the swimming pool had shed off little flowers. A wall by the swimming pool was covered by vines with some blooms. Some hotel guests were hanging out on the platform， just like me. The sun looked circular， huge and red， perching over the silhouettes of the distant mountains. The thick dusk was descending. It suddenly occurred to me that the sun was going. I fetched my camera from my hotel room and rushed back to the platform.

The sun was blazing like fire. The mountains on the shore and the isles merged and yet distinguished themselves in different layers of colors fading into the edges of the world. The lake was burning， too， reflecting the tints of the skies and the sun. The suns descending was almost audible. The descending tempo accelerated as the sun sank closer to the mountains. The reds of the sun became increasingly darker. Then the sun kissed the mountains. And then the fabulous ball became a semi-circle and then rapidly disappeared into the waters. In the place where the sun had been， for a moment， there was a huge halo hanging over the clouds on the edge of the world. Then the dusk embraced the lake. Silence was everywhere. The osmanthus trees became shadows. The viewers on the platform dispersed.

I went back to my room and stood in front of the window for a moment. The darkness was everywhere. The reeds outside the window were shadowy. On the desk was a book titled ：. The book was written by Tong Chanfu， one of the emigrants from the reservoir region. The book is out of print now. My copy was a replicate I bought online.

I had a chat with Tong. Tong was not ten years old when his family uprooted themselves and moved away. Tong remembers the last sight of the house where he had lived disappearing into the waters forever. He remembers the day. The memory drove him to write the book. He remembers where the village was in present-day reservoir.

My colleague Li Bin was probably the youngest emigrant from the reservoir region. “When I was born， the construction project was almost over. The reservoir was ready to hold water. 300，000 residents in Chunan and Suian moved away from the region. I was born after my parents and my brother settled down in Linqi Town. Our hometown was Hecheng. It is now under water，” recalls Li Bin. Every time he visits the reservoir， he chooses to watch sunset on the lake. He says he feels the houses are still out there in the water. After the setting sun goes down into the lake， he imagines， sunlight pours down upon the house where his parents had once lived， with fish moving around in and out of the windows.

I have chatted with many emigrants or their descendents about their homes now submerged in the lake. They have vivid memories about their lost homes. Thanks to some divers and photographers， we now can view videos of old houses well preserved deep down in the lake. These houses are not desolate. They still look grand and homelike.

The sunset that impressed me deeply isnt the most spectacular one over the lake and the platform by the swimming pool is by far not the best place to view a sunset around the lake， according to those who are from the now-submerged world and those who regularly come back to the lake and watch sunset moments over the lake from various vantage spots. But I cherish the sunset I watched. It is breathtakingly beautiful enough for me to understand these people whose former homes are now underwater and only the sun that sinks into the lake every evening could visit them.