中山装的释义与史实

朱博伟 刘瑞璞

摘要： 中山装代表“三民主义”“国之四维”“五权宪法”的释义在学界和社会广为流传，甚至一度成为“正史”，但相关记录却一直语焉不详，无法提供可靠的史料支持。文章基于民国时期文献、图像和实物史料深入详实地综合考证、梳理“三民四维五权”形成的时间节点，并将其与孙中山生前“所御猎服”的历史源流进行比较研究，指出二者在内容和时间上的差异。确凿的史实证明，释义实为后人附会，它的产生晚于中山装出现的时间，不可能用于指导中山装的创制。而中山装的形制结构在释义出现前后也有明显的变化，与释义的解读呈现出完全不同的面貌。

关键词： 中山装;释义;三民主义;国之四维;五权宪法

中图分类号： TS941.12

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 1001-7003（2021）12-0080-06

引用页码： 121201

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.12.013（篇序）

Abstract： The interpretation of the Zhongshan suit representing "Three People’s Principles"， "Four Dimensions of the State" and "Five-power Constitution" has been widely circulated in academic circles and society， and has even been recorded in official history. However， the relevant records have been mentioned but vaguely， without reliable historical support. In this paper， the time nodes of the generation of "Three People， Four Dimensions and Five Powers" were sorted out through in-depth field investigation based on the literature， image and physical historical data during the period of the Republic of China. Through comparative studies of the historical origin of Sun Yat-sen’s "hunting clothes"， the study pointed out the differences between the two in terms of content and time. It is proved by valid historical facts that the interpretation is actually the farfetched interpretation by later generations， because it was created later than the emergence of the Zhongshan suit and could not have been used to guide the production of the Zhongshan suit. The shape and structure of the Zhongshan suit also changed significantly before and after the appearance of the interpretation of the meaning， presenting a completely different look compared to the interpretation of the meaning.

Key words： Zhongshan suit; interpretation; Three People’s Principles; Four Dimensions of the State; Five-power Constitution

中山裝三粒袖扣代表“三民主义”、四个贴袋代表“国之四维”、五粒门扣代表“五权宪法”的释义似乎已成为定论，也被社会普遍接纳成为近代中国的革命符号且影响至今。事实上，早在1929年就曾有权威文章《中山装之起源》发表在《北洋画报》，提到中山装“所谓三民五权等说，均属牵强误会”，但一直没有引起重视。2007年，袁仄[1]在《中山服初考》中，在较为全面梳理中山装发展历史的基础上，提出了“中山装的产生、发展疑团重重，众说纷纷”的疑问，认为当代中山装的历史记载与史料之间存在冲突，但并没有对这些疑团进行进一步研究。此后的2014年和2018年，薛伟强等[2]的《中山装“政治含义”考辨》和毛经……