镜像里的金刚碑

刘晓娜 曾馨乐

5年前的一个温暖冬日，我第一次走进北碚金刚碑，就被这个古老的村镇所吸引。以至于5年来，每当冬天出太阳，脑海里不自觉地就会浮现金刚碑居民在溪谷边晒太阳的画面，那种温暖的触感，就像祖母的手在轻抚额头。

那次探访不久，金刚碑历史文化街区修缮修复项目便启动了。目前，核心区修缮工作已全部完工，金刚碑即将重新开街的消息不胫而走。网友们打卡的照片，再次勾起了我的强烈欲望，一定要在开街前再会会这位“老朋友”。

Five years ago， I was attracted by this ancient village when I first walked into Beibei King Kong Monument on a warm winter day. In the past five years， whenever the sun shone in winter， the image of King Kong Monument residents sunbathing by the stream valley would come to my mind. The warm touch is like my grandmother’s hand gently caressing my forehead.

Shortly after that visit， the project of restoring the historical and cultural block of King Kong Monument was launched. At present， the repairing work of the core area has been completed， and the news that the King Kong Monument is about to reopen has spread like wildfire. After seeing the photos taken by the netizens in the historical and cultural block of King Kong Monument， I had a strong urge to visit my "old friend" again before the street opening.

變与不变What Changed and What Stayed the Same

重逢发生在7月的一场雨后。

以缙云山的云雾缭绕为背景，从北泉路一个不起眼的岔路口拐进，沿蜿蜒的下坡路朝嘉陵江前进。这是一段惬意的步行，置身山峦拱翠之中，蝉鸣此起彼伏，湿漉漉的空气附着在皮肤表面，颇有“空山新雨后”的意境。

数百米后，当一群参差不齐的屋顶在山谷间涌现时，便到了金刚碑。回想5年前的初次造访，金刚碑非常隐蔽、难寻，当我们从一个酒店的停车场穿入老街时，竟有一种误闯私宅的冒失感。

而此刻，当一栋名为“秋霞的城堡”的房子闯入眼帘时，我隐约预感到：沧桑的金刚碑也许正在变成一个活泼、酷炫、文艺的“潮老太”，她以一种开放热情的姿态迎接游人。

在强烈的好奇和忐忑中，我们踏上石梯，一步一步下到溪谷，走入金刚碑的腹心。

再次走在老街，我确信这已经不是上一次看到的金刚碑，但又很难一眼分辨出具体的改变。肉眼望去，新与旧似乎已经融为一体。……