丢在古老廊桥的“魂”

陆春祥

松陽产名嘴。

南宋周密的笔记《癸辛杂识》续集上，有《讼学业觜社》，曾说到松阳人嘴的厉害。我到松阳，松阳人这样形容能说的 ：甲厉害，能将树上的鸟儿骗下来。还要再加一句 ：乙胜甲，他能将骗下的鸟儿，再骗上树去！

一些古籍里的名嘴成了历史。如今，松阳有了新名嘴，鲁名嘴，鲁晓敏，《廊桥笔记》的作者。他不骗，他能写，写有数百万字的老房子、廊桥等古建筑。他也能说，一肚皮的山货，老房子、古建筑，变成活灵活现的历史。

松阳、浙江、全国的廊桥，在晓敏嘴里如珍珠样泻出，好听又好看。他先将家乡松阳吃透研碎。松阳有一百多个保存相当完整的古村落，中国传统村落就有75个，在全国都排得上号。他将这些散落在浙西南深山里的明珠，一颗颗披灰拣拾，向外卖力推荐。

那一次，我跟着他走进了黄家大院，他展示了他的名嘴实力。晓敏戴着导游的耳麦，以一个地道的松阳人、文史专家和作家的多重身份，将他眼中的黄家大院，一点点解构给人看。那些木雕、砖雕、牛腿，金木水火土，几乎所有的技术名词，他张口就来，来龙去脉，加上人物事件，演绎得活龙活现，仿佛他就在事件现场。

我问过晓敏，为什么这么喜欢古建筑？为什么这么喜欢古村落？或者，是什么让你的魂丢在了这些古老的廊桥上？

他给我讲了两个小故事。

第一个故事。他读小学时，比较玩皮，不太爱读书，有天，应该是犯了比较大的错误，被父母关进书房，闭门思过。百无聊赖中，他将父亲书架上的一本《世界建筑100例》拿下来看，其中有不少中国古建筑，一看就被迷上，直到整本书看完，他又向搞建筑的父亲要来了其他书。古建筑的书，越读越多，于是对古建筑涉及的人文呀、历史呀、地理呀、风水呀也统统关注。关于地理风水之类，晓敏走到哪儿，都是张口就来，他说起来写起来都是一套一套的，让我们膜拜。

第二个故事。有一年，他邀我去松阳讲座，陪我去了松阳的山下阳村，斑剥的泥墙下，他向我讲述了另外一个原因。他在供电公司工作，有时用户欠费，就要上门催费，串村走巷，走得多了，一些老村里的牌坊呀青石门楣呀，老房子里的厅柱呀匾额呀，许多破败的元素，将他脑子里已存的古建筑知识纷纷激活。我在松阳的黄家大院，就充分领略了晓敏对古建筑的造诣，他边走边为我讲解，引经据典，条理清晰，历史年份，细小数据，一一确凿，却不时加上自己的见解，我觉得，写出来，就是一篇极好的文章。

我似乎看到了一个古桥爱好者，不远百里，起早贪黑，在乡间出没，钻进钻出，扑上扑下，目测手测线测，访东问西，然后，又趴在故纸堆里，寻图穷迹，为了廊桥，为了古村落，他把业余时间都搭上了。

现在，我和朋友们自然知道了，兴趣是他最好的老师，他为什么能把廊桥像庖丁解牛一样解构得那么游刃有余了。

鲁晓敏的魂，不仅仅是丢在了松阳、庆元、泰顺、景宁等浙南山区的古老廊桥上，他“魂不守舍”，他的眼光，早已从浙江移步至全国，他在古徽州的徽派廊桥上久久流连，在闽粤赣风格多样的客家廊桥上依依不舍，在湘桂黔崇山峻岭间的侗家廊桥上流连忘返，也在湘渝鄂桃花源中的廊桥上乐不思浙，数年来，他就像徐宏祖那样，为着一个目标，在奔跑中体验中寻找他深厚的发现。

廊桥、古村落、老房子，鲁晓敏都喜欢到了骨髓里，是他的魂魄所在，也是他独特的文字王国，他将它们大卸十六块，再从他笔下迸发出来，就成了廊桥下面那不绝的哗哗溪流，悦耳动听。

（作者系浙江省作协副主席）

Ancient Covered Bridge as a Soul Paradise

By   Lu Chunxiang

Lu Xiaomin was born in Songyang， Zhejiang. And Songyang is home to good talkers.

When I visited Songyang， I heard some local description on good talkers： a good talker could trick a bird on the tree into flying down， and a better talker could then talk it into flying back on the tree.

Some good Songyang talkers recorded in ancient books are a thing of the past. But Lu Xiaomin is certainly one of the best today. Instead of tricking， he can write and has written millions of words about the old buildings there. He also talks， turning tons of interesting anecdotes about local ancient architecture into vivid oral history. The stories of covered bridges of Songyang， and even the entire country， keep falling from his lips like pearls， nice on the ear and easy to visualize.

In his book， Notes on Covered Bridges， Lu started introducing the covered bridges from his hometown， which he knows inside out. There are over 100 well-preserved ancient villages. They are like pearls scattered deep inside the southwestern mountains in Zhejiang， which Lu picked up， dust off and has been trying to sell to the outside world.

There was this one time that I followed him into the Huang Compound， and he showed me how good a storyteller he is. Wearing a tour guide’s earphone， Lu explained bit by bit the Huang Compound in his eyes， as a literary historical expert， writer and Songyang native. Almost all the technical terms related to wood carving， brick carving and bracket just fell incessantly off his lips， and the full story， the people and incidents involved were told by him in such a life-like style that as if he were there on the scene.

What makes him so fond of these old buildings and ancient villages？

When he was a primary school student， he was quite naughty and did not like studying. One day he was shut by his parents into the study for doing something really wrong， and made to reflect on his mistake there. Having nothing to do， he picked a book on world architecture from his father’s collection， and was fascinated by it， where a lot of Chinese ancient architecture was introduced. That was the start of his passion for ancient architecture.

One year he invited me to come to Songyang and give a lecture there， and accompanied me to the Shanxiayang village， where he gave me the second answer to my question. He once worked at a local power grid， and sometimes had to collect overdue electrical bills door to door. Walking around the village， he gradually grew familiar with the pagodas， the old houses with their halls， pillars， plaques and everything. These weathered parts of the village have activated his knowledge of ancient architecture.

I seem to see right in front of my eyes an industrious lover of ancient bridges who have run miles and dug deep into ancient maps whenever he is free for research on his beloved covered bridges and villages. Now I understand how interest is his best teacher and why he could describe the covered bridges so skillfully and with so much ease.

And his attention for covered bridges has gone beyond Zhejiang to cover the whole country. He just loves these things to the bone — they are the paradise for his soul， and the inspiration of his literary realm. With his magic pen， he decomposes them and reproduces them into a melodious， endless river.