一方水土两方艺

一方水土两方艺

ONE LAND TWO ARTS

Different natural environment will breed different people; different people invent different arts. Arts in Zhenjiang are rooted deeply in this land full of cultural elements,which integrate best parts from all over China. The arts then were permeated into everyday life .

Text by Brooke Translation by Tao Wenjia&Bian Jiajin&Yishan Photos by Zeng Jian&Wang Ruijia

一方水土养一方人，一方人出一方艺。

镇江的工艺深深扎根于这片文化深厚的土壤，汇聚大江南北之精华，融于柴米油盐之寻常。

Lin Tianzhong, Senior creative director of Hengshun Vinegar.林田中，恒顺香醋高级技师。

ZHENJIANG AROMATIC VINEGAR

Nihao: What do you think makes Zhenjiang the origin of famous vinegar brand?

Lin: I think the fi rst reason is its unique geographic features and natural environment. In Zhenjiang, the four seasons are very different, which helps with the natural fermentation and preservation. Second, as a land of fi sh and rice in South China, Zhenjiang has abundant agricultural products. We use local polished glutinous rice to make vinegar. Just like making rice wine, using glutinous rice will make higher quality products with a hint of sweetness. Our vinegar is not as sour as vinegar from North China; instead, the aroma and taste are tender and lasting. The Zhenjiang vinegar has a high amino acid level, so it has some medical use. In the Compendium of Materia Medica of the Ming Dynasty, there is a part about how this vinegar can be used as an ingredient of Chinese medicine. Local Chinese Medicine practitioners also have their own vinegar prescriptions. Zhenjiang has been producing vinegar for more than 1000 years. The core traditional techniques are passed on from generation to generation. For instance, the Hengshun vinegar has a history of more than 160 years.

Nihao：What are the core traditional techniques of making Zhenjiang vinegar?

Lin：The traditional procedure includes more than 40 different steps. Today, manufacturers still stick to those steps. The most essential one is the layered method. During the 21-day fermentation period, people put bran, rice hulls, acetic acid bacteria, and other materials proportionally into different layers. Then they will stir them differently in accordance with the current weather conditions and fermentation. Experienced masters will observe the smell and color carefully before using the most appropriate strength to stir. Certainly it needs a lot of experiences through the years. Such is the essence of this technique. Other traditions, such as using jars to preserve vinegar outdoors and the parched-rice coloring of the vinegar, are also signif i cant for Zhenjiang vinegar to have its unique aroma and color.

Nihao：Why did Zhenjiang vinegar become a local culture?

Lin：I think it's because a certain kind of natural environment will breed a certain kind of people. People in Zhenjiang like to eat cover noodle and salted pork, which are both greasy. And vinegar will help with digestion. So it naturally became a necessity for the people. Moreover, Zhenjiang is at the intersection of the Yangtze River and the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, so the Hengshun vinegar has been shipped out all the way to South and North China and even the South Seas since the Qing Dynasty, so this vinegar became a famous local product. You cannot separate Zhenjiang vinegar from its natural environment because after years of fermentation, we now have our own acetic acid bacteria. We tried such bacteria from other places. We also tried to move our bacteria to other places, but neither worked.

The crafts of Hengshun Vinegar has been listed in a national intangible culture project.恒顺香醋酿制技艺被列入全国非遗项目。

镇江香醋

Nihao：镇江为什么能出名醋？

林：首先，镇江有得天独厚的自然环境，四季分明，有助于自然发酵和存储。其次，镇江是鱼米之乡，原料丰富优质。镇江酿醋基本用本地粳糯，口感、品质相对较高。它的味道不像北方醋那么酸味强劲，而是酸中带点微甜，就像江南人一样，更清秀隽永。镇江醋氨基酸含量高，具备药用功效，是唯一可以入药的醋。明代《本草纲目》中有镇江醋的药用方法，当地的中医还会开醋处方。而且，镇江有1000多年的制醋历史，核心的传统工艺得以代代相传。

Nihao：镇江香醋酿造传统工艺的核心是什么？

林：整个传统酿造过程有大大小小40多道工序，至今坚持不变。其中，最核心的技术叫作固态分层法。在醋醅的21天发酵过程中，将麸皮、稻壳、醋酸菌种等按照一定比例分层叠放，再根据气候、发酵情况，进行不同程度地翻拌。有经验的老师傅翻醅前，要仔细闻味、观色，按照经验和手感控制力度和深度。这是多少年累积下来的技术，也成了这项技艺的核心。其他传统例如露天坛存、炒米色，也让镇江香醋形成了自己独有的香气和色泽。

Nihao：为什么镇江的醋可以成为当地的一种文化？

林：我觉得，一方水土养一方人。镇江人几乎每天必吃的锅盖面、肴肉，都是重荤油腻的，醋有去腻促消化的功效，于是，成了家家户户、顿顿不少的必备。而且，镇江交通发达，清代恒顺香醋就开始销往南北各地，甚至远到南洋，这让镇江香醋的名声大振，也成为南来北往的人都要买的手信。多少年来的酿造制作，也让镇江醋跟这里的水土密不可分。我们曾经试过把别的地方的醋酸菌种移植过来，也试过把我们的菌种移植到别处，但都酿不出这么好的品质。

JINGKOU CLAY SCULPTURE

Nihao: What's the key feature of Zhenjiang (Jingkou) clay sculpture?

Ge: In my opinion, the most distinctive feature is the integration of rough and delicate, and of northern and southern Chinese culture. As Zhenjiang has been an important transport hub for southern and northern China, businessmen and craftsman from different places would have the chance to gather at the city and exchange information as well as techniques. The clay sculptures from north China often emphasize the surfaces of sculptures and use various tools, while the south often focuses on the spirit and mainly relies on pinching. I make my sculptureswith knives or my hands according to the theme. Though I combine skills from both the north and the south, I pay more attention to the spirit of the sculpture and try to emphasise certain parts of the characters. For example, when making Bainianzi, a character in Chinese ancient folklore who is considered to be gentle and kind, I've created the face, clothes, and gesture in a soft and beautiful way. But later when she is in great anger in the story, I've given her more exaggerated movement.

Nihao: What does the clay sculpture tell

us about the cultural characteristics of Zhenjaing?

Ge: The themes of the sculptures are closely related to local culture. Many are based on Chinese folk stories, which we also often heard from the elder generations and read in picturestory books. Also, Zhenjiang has great a natural environment, surrounded by mountains and a river, and has attracted scholars and artists to come and spend time here. Therefore, the city has abundant folk cultures and a laidback style, humour, and a bit exaggerating.

Ge Zhizhong, inheritor of intangible cultural heritage“Jingkou Clay Sculpture”.葛志仲，“京口泥塑”非遗项目传承人

京口泥塑

Nihao：镇江（京口）泥塑从技法上来说有什么特点？

葛：我觉得最大的特点是粗中带细，南北交融。镇江自古是交通要道，南来北往的人在等待渡江时，交流信息、技术，于是南北的技法得以在此融通。一般来说，北方比较注重块面，用工具比较多，比方说天津泥人张；南方注重写意，主要用手捏的方法，比如说惠山泥人。我做的泥塑，有手捏，也有用刻刀，根据题材选择不同的手法，南北结合。相对来说，我更偏重写意，抓住某一点，来表现人物的性格、神韵。比如白娘子的性格温柔善良，五官、衣着、动作都要比较秀气。而在水漫金山一幕时，要强调白娘子发怒，动作、神情要比平时更张扬一些。

Nihao：京口泥塑反映了镇江怎样的文化特性？

葛：泥塑的选题跟镇江文化密切相关，比如我做过的水漫金山、刘备娶亲等，都是从小听到大的当地民间故事。用料上也多是就地取材，不强调奢华，泥塑文化非常接地气，平民化，大众化。而且，镇江山清水秀，文人雅士都喜欢来此地吟诗作画，一方面使得此地文化积淀深厚，另一方面创作者在这里保持着放松、休闲的心态，所以文化风格不沉重、不急躁，有种回归自然，无拘无束的质朴之趣。

Chen Bohua, inheritor of national intangible cultural project.陈柏华 ，“秦淮灯彩”国家级非遗传承人

LANTERNS FESTIVALOF JURONG

Nihao：What is Jurong Lantern Festival famous for?

Chen: The source of Qin Huai River is in Jurong. Qin Huai District has thousands of years' history of a lantern festival. The people in Jurong love to watch the dragon dance and lion dance, and visit the lantern festivals when we are little. This special regional culture formed the tradition of lantern making. At the time of traditional festivals or people's houses being completed, every family will hang the lanterns to give some joyful atmosphere. Especially when it comes to the Festival of Lanterns, which is just like a Chinese carnival, it is essential to visit the festival. In the past, people making lanterns in Jurong were normally farmers. They made some festival lanterns before the festival or at rest and then sold them in the town. Now, most lanterns I make are for grand lantern festivals. Besides the exterior decoration, the techniques of sound, lighting, electricity and the like will be included. The electronic industry in Zhenjiang is quite developed, which makes Jurong festival lanterns more accurate and more diversif i ed in the sense of lighting and conduct velocity of action potential. This is also one of the advantages of Jurong festival lanterns. I did a project called “Usher in the New Year with Drums and Gongs” this year, in which a paper monkey was playing the drum and the gong to the beat of music. Both the lantern craft and technique were of the highest level.

Nihao: Compared to the others, what's the specialty of Jurong festival lanterns?

Chen: Northern lanterns are rough, implying booming and good luck, so they are brightlycolored, in sharp contrast and bigger in size. In the regions south of the Yangtze River, people are relatively fi ne and smooth. The lanterns are mainly for praying for peace. The color is light and elegant, and the lanterns are often made in a smaller size.Zhenjiang is located on the north-south border, fusing the features of both. Its lantern craft is more similar to the southern, emphasizing details. For instance, when we make dragons, we don't just draw some fl akes on the lantern paper. We stick the fl akes onto the lantern piece by piece, which makes it more vivid and three dimensional. For the materials, Jurong festival lanterns do not apply precious materials such as silk in Zhejiang, and the themes are not that international. Jurong festival lanterns have more customs, more themes about Zhenjiang folk lore or even Zhenjiang Three Strange. They are very down-to-earth ones.

句容花灯

Nihao：镇江句容的花灯为什么出名？

陈：秦淮河的上源头就在句容，秦淮灯会有数千年传统，我们句容人从小就喜欢看舞龙、舞狮，看灯会。特殊的地域文化形成了做灯的传统。一般传统节庆或者新屋落成，各家都会挂些花灯增添喜气。过去，句容做灯的人多是普通农民，节前或者农闲时扎制一些花灯到村镇上卖。现在，我做的灯多半用于大型灯会，除了外在的装饰工艺，还要加上声、光、电等科技。江苏地区电子工业较为发达，在灯光控制、动作传导上都更精准、多变，这也是句容花灯的优势之一。今年我做过一个“敲锣打鼓迎新春”的作品，用纸扎的猴子跟着音乐节拍敲打真锣真鼓，无论工艺还是科技上都体现了较高的水准。

Nihao:相比其他地方，句容的花灯有什么特别之处？

陈：北方灯比较粗犷，寓意红红火火，所以用色非常鲜艳，对比强烈，造型一般比较大。江南地区比较细腻，主要用于求平安，色彩淡雅和谐，小的物件比较多。镇江属于南北交界的地方，融合了南北两方的特点。它在工艺上更接近南方，特别注重细节，比如我们做的龙，不是简单在灯面上画上鳞片，而是一片片粘上去，更加立体，更加精致。但在用料上，句容花灯不会像浙江使用真丝那么高档的材料，题材也不会像海派花灯那么洋气。句容的灯更多是民俗风格，题材多是镇江的民间传说、镇江三怪等，是非常接地气的民间艺术。

Nihao:如何成为做花灯的大师？

陈：从技术上来说，学做花灯并不难，一个星期就能掌握皮毛，但要做精，需要悟性，以及不断钻研。我没有真正拜过师，但是一直没有停止过到处学习观摩。现在，我还开始研究根雕、剪纸等其他工艺，发现这些都可以与做灯相通，这就是中国民间工艺博大精深之处。要成为做灯的大师，我认为最重要的是见闻广博，真正理解题材背后的文化。