Positive color system，clothing colour of the backbone

Abstract：Study of Confucian color system of laws，which is can feel the so-called positive color system in traditional costume design reflects the strict class rank，and the influence of this kind of colour level also vaguely in the modern clothing，we in the design of clothing at the same time，also should attach importance to Confucian culture，especially in the design of associated with traditional costumes，we must take into account in the clothing color characteristic of the Confucian culture and modern culture.

Key words：Confucian culture，positive color，clothing color

Since ancient times，color has played an important role in costume design.The ancient people developed the color intuition system from the original monochrome choice to the color combination，which reflects that human beings are not only the pursuit of physical beauty，but also begin to improve the aesthetic value in the spiritual level.In recent years，the concept of returning to the ancient style of Chinese fashion clothing has been greatly influenced by the traditional culture，among which Confucianism and Taoism have a particularly prominent influence on Chinese clothing.

Will，of course，it is because of the Confucian one species than thinking and positive color system mutual confluence，suggests that a mans virtue，with color from the color of the decorative symbol to express peoples noble character，this is the Confucian thought the color was the main reason of beauty.It also had a deep influence on the formation of specific symbolic meaning in the ancient Chinese color system，and it has always been regarded as a sign to distinguish between nobility and rank.From the Zhou dynasty “ritual” in the clothing and the robe to the Tang dynasty，the military of officers clothing have very clear rules again，until the Qing dynasty，the Feudal dynasty is done with robe，court beads，the color of the hat to group of anger as high and low，ordinary people still did not come out from the color of imprison.

When we design clothes，also want to vary from person to person，owing to the different style，considering the color to use on the clothing，the feelings of the person that wear and reflected lasting appeal，rather than solely on the designers subjective interest and optional.And in the modern design，we also want to consider the clothing is a kind of artistic products，its not hanging on the wall of a work，only for appreciation but want to use，so in the choice of the colour we will consider the practicality of the design.There is no doubt that these factors should be properly arranged in the use of the Confucian color system.

Yellow is the color that can cry aloud most，it has a kind of natural outspread feeling and acuteness.Yellow is the most brilliant and bright color.In the ancient Chinese hierarchical dress，golden yellow represents the majesty of bright heaven and symbolizes power and nobility.In modern design，yellow has positive symbolic meanings such as “hope“，“happiness” and “pleasure”，as well as negative symbolic meanings such as “danger”，“attention” and “anxiety”.Around the world，each country has a different opinion of yellow.

White is a colorless system.It symbolizes white，light and pure.It can be thought that in ancient times of china，most poets were fond of white，no matter they had high ideals and pursuits for love and career，and changeful was a perfectionist.In addition，white is a symbol of youth，so people think of white when become young.In western countries，white is regarded as a symbol of purity.

Blue，which was originally meant to be blue in ancient times，it is a symbol of hope and gives people a sense of security.It is also negative，indicating calmness，coldness and immaturity，as well as the dignity of depth，fraternity and discipline.The blue in Chinese traditional five colors originates from the blue range of colors.In ancient times，the clothes of ordinary people were often erotic.China is also a country that likes to use blue，such as blue and white porcelain，which is rare in the world.

Red is the color most easily associated with the sun，fire or blood，representing passion and giving people the impression of strength，vigor，determination and victory.Since ancient times，red has been the best color to represent auspiciousness and happiness.It is also the meaning of being open-minded，honest，straightforward，unconcealed and unpretentious.

Black，in theory，is both dull and colorless.Compared with white，the black tone is hopeless silence，a mysterious color.It is sometimes seen as ominous，unlucky，etc.The black in Chinese traditional five colors still has the sense of sadness and desolation.Black characteristics is also a council of origin in china，Qin Shihuang had the black as soldiers wear clothing color，it is because the black also is a deterrent，use black can create stress for the opposition.

The five colours when we design a return to antique clothing all want to consider is the symbolic significance，not only to take care of Confucian positive color to the requirement of color，also want to pay attention to the modern clothing for another point of view of colour，fused them better reflected in the design of the dress.These color vision can lead us to know the story behind，produced a clothing to the wearer the feeling of clothing color effect factors like harmony，to reach the overall harmony of clothing color character.Whether the clothing color resonates with the feelings of the audience is one of the important signs of the success of the design of this work.It can be seen that the clothing color and peoples emotional connection is very important.

作者簡介

李晓（1985.—），女，汉族，籍贯：内蒙古赤峰人，齐鲁工业大学艺术学院，16级在读研究生，硕士学位，专业：艺术设计，研究方向：服装设计与形象策划

（作者单位：齐鲁工业大学艺术学院）