近代民间眉勒纹样的构成形式及其意向性研究

王忆雯 许悦

摘要： 眉勒是佩戴于额间的传统服饰品，其形成历史悠久，类型多样，并以其装饰纹样最具艺术表现力。民间眉勒纹样样式精美，构成要素丰富，构成形式相对稳定，其搭配呈现程式化的特征，带有含蓄隐喻的意向表达。文章通过对近代民间眉勒纹样的研究分析，旨在得出纹样的构成特征与规律。对以江南大学汉族民间服饰传习馆馆藏的眉勒实物纹样的描摹绘制和构成分析，发现民间眉勒纹样的构成形式在纹样组合、纹样与造型的关系等方面呈现对称与均衡，“适”形与“破”形的节奏和秩序美感，因此提出民间眉勒纹样存在隐喻的吉祥寓意和天人合一的造物思想。

关键词： 近代;民间眉勒;纹样;构成形式;意向性

Abstract： Meile is a traditional clothing ornament for wearing on the forehead. It has a long history and various types， and its of artistic expressive force for its decorative patterns. The folk Meile pattern is exquisite in style， contains rich elements and is relatively stable in form. Its matching shows stylized features， and expresses implicit metaphorical intention. This study is intended to figure out the formation features and rules of the pattern by research and analysis of folk Meile patterns in modern times. Through depicting and drawing of real Meile patterns from the collection of the Han nationalitys folk clothing inheritance culture institution of Jiangnan University and formation analysis thereof， it is found that the formation of folk Meile patterns appear to be symmetrical and balanced in respect of pattern combination and the relationship between pattern and shape， and rhythmed and ordered in respect of "suitable" shape and "broken" shape. On this basis， it is inferred that folk Meile patterns contain auspicious implication and the thought of nature unity.

Key words： modern; folk Meile; pattern; form of constitution; intentionality

眉勒又称“抹额”“头箍”“缠头”，是中国女性传统的一种佩戴于额前的头箍状饰物，其具有约束头发、保暖御寒、便于劳作的功能。眉勒最早可追溯至商周时期的“頍”，頍由丝帛制成。秦汉以后，男子流行用布帛将额头围住[1]，成为“抹额”的滥觞。至明清，南北方妇女冬季皆戴暖额。常用的眉勒造型有船形、蝙蝠形、哑铃形、眼罩形、双叶形等。

目前学界对眉勒的关注和相关研究较少，且多散落在服饰史的部分章节，鲜有专门的深入研究，其中涉及眉勒的相关文献多从语言学、地理学、民族学、艺术学和史学等学科视角出发，溯源眉勒的名称及引申语义[2]、形制工艺[3]、审美价值[4]、与物质文化的关系[5]等内容，对眉勒纹样构成及意向性的研究较缺乏。……