基于古汉字字源学视角下皮服起源的考辨

李斌 严雅琪 李强 沈劲夫

摘要： 针对皮服起源的问题，文章运用古汉字字源学、古文献及考古发现三维印证的方法，从原始皮革的处理方法、原始服装的皮革属性、原始皮服的形制三方面展开分析，得到皮服是人类的初服的观点。研究表明：原始人类运用“吹气剥皮法”与“口鞣皮革法”等来处理皮革，为皮服的制作提供物质准备;甲骨文“衣”与“裘”字形比较及篆体“褐”的会意构字规律，至少在逻辑上证明了原始服装的皮质属性;原始皮质腰带是服装起源的原点，它是一种有效的携带工具，而真正意义上原始皮服形制为“贯头式”或“披挂式”，它为纺织面料服装的发展奠定形制上的基础。

关键词： 皮服;甲骨文;字源学;服装起源;三维印证;古文献

中图分类号： TS564;K877.1

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 10017003（2021）07009405

引用页码： 071203

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.07.015（篇序）

Study on the origin of leather clothing from the perspective of etymology ofancient Chinese characters

LI Bin1a，b， YAN Yaqi1a， LI Qiang1c， SHEN Jinfu2

（1a.School of Fashion; 1b.Wuhan Textile and Apparel Digital Engineering Technology Research Center;1c.Editorial Department of Fashion Guide， Wuhan Textile University， Wuhan 430073， China;2.School of Art， Hubei University， Wuhan 430062， China）

Abstract： In view of the origin of leather clothing， the three-dimensional verification method of ancient Chinese character etymology， ancient books and archaeological discoveries was used to analyze the processing method of the original leather， the leather properties of the original clothing， and the form of the original leather clothing to obtain the view that leather clothing is the initial clothing of human. The study showed that， primitive humans used "blowing stripping method" and "mouth tanning method" to deal with leather and provide material preparation for the production of leather clothing. The comparison of "garment" and "leather" in oracle bone inscriptions and the rule of semantic word formation of seal character "brown" at least logically proved the leather properties of the original clothing. Primitive leather belt is the origin of clothing， and it is an effective carrying tool. In the true sense， the original leather clothing is shaped as "crosshead-style clothing" or "draped-style clothing"， which lays the shape foundation for the development of textile fabric clothing.

Key words： leather clothing; oracle bone inscriptions; etymology; origin of clothing; three-dimensional verification; ancient books

收稿日期： 20210107;

修回日期： 20210616

基金項目：

作者简介： 李斌（1979），男，博士，主要从事服装设计、服饰艺术与文化的研究。通信作者：沈劲夫，副教授，shenjinfu@sina.com。

服装起源问题是服装史学界无法回避的问题，学术界从其面料来源与动机两方面形成了众多学说。从服装面料来源角度看，有卉服说与皮服说之争[1];从服装起源的动机角度看，主要分为两类：一是由实用功能的需要所引发的服装起源学说，如护体说、保暖说等;二是由心理需求所引发的服装起源学说，如巫术说、审美说、性吸引说、遮羞说、标识说等[2]。很显然，这些学说均是不同学科的学者站在各自的知识背景下，提出的有关服装起源的学说，具有某些合理性。……