一个南宋厨娘的美食APP

西窗

南宋杭州一帶，有“不重生男重生女”的风俗。女儿是潜力股，如果她们擅厨艺，人生即可开挂：皇宫的御厨要厨娘，富贵人家的私厨要厨娘，市井酒店的大厨也要厨娘;如果颜值高，色艺俱佳，身价更是不菲：“非极富家不可用。”

古时把女性为家人烹饪称为“主中馈”，听着像某个官名。事实上，在古代，供膳诸事是家政，被纳入女性美德评价系统里。永康人陈亮写的《凌夫人何氏墓志铭》：“家政出于舅姑，而辅其内事惟谨，房户细碎，无不整办。”

宋代才女量多而质优，除了书房，厨房也是宋代女性展露才华的重要阵地。《吴氏中馈录》便是出自800年前南宋金华的吴氏之手。这本记录金华主流菜系的古菜谱堪称是南宋美食APP。

中馈打造“家的味道”

2018年热播剧《知否》提到中馈这词：“吾倾慕汝已久，愿聘汝为妇，托付中馈，衍嗣绵延，终老一生！”中馈指妇女在家中主持饮食等事。

号称江南第一家的浙江浦江郑宅镇郑氏义门有《郑氏家范》，里面规定：“诸妇主馈，十日一轮，年至六十者免之。新娶之妇，与假三月，三月之外，即当主馈。”浦江郑义门这个庞大的共食家族，前后绵延240年之久，女性的中馈作出了很大贡献。

风雅的宋人活得精致，爱美、好吃、喜设宴，厨师是刚需。

南宋杭州一带，有“不重生男重生女”的风俗。女儿是潜力股，如果她们擅厨艺，人生即可开挂：皇宫的御厨要厨娘，富贵人家的私厨要厨娘，市井酒店的大厨也要厨娘，如果颜值高，色艺俱佳，身价更是不菲：“非极富家不可用”。

女厨的手艺自然相当了得。

有一位尼姑能以瓜蔬等素食材，用炸脍脯腌酱等烹饪手法，拼出一幅王维的《辋川图》，有山川流水，亭台楼榭，令人叹为观止。这位尼姑因此而留名：梵正。

宋五嫂也因一碗鱼羹，和西湖一起名闻天下。

正是一代一代“主中馈”的妇女兢兢业业，才打造出中华民族独一无二的“家的味道”，才有了博大精深的烹饪文化。

菜谱流露厨娘的小心思

金华吴氏的身世、事迹已不可考。20世纪80年代，有人提出她是浦江人。

吴氏，不是御厨，也不是临安某个官宦家的私家厨娘，只是小县城一枚普通的家庭妇女，居然将一千年前的人间风味用文字神奇地保留了下来。

要说菜谱，《吴氏中馈录》不是最早的，北魏崔浩的《食经》早就系统论述了烹饪技艺，但崔浩只是记录他母亲的烹饪心得。所以真正由女性来书写的菜谱，吴氏的“中馈录”排第一。《吴氏中馈录》既无序也无跋，仿佛不是为了写书而写书，就是随手记下，被有心人收录于其他书籍留传了下来。

我们不妨想象，她曾经是唐朝诗人王建笔下的《新嫁娘》：“三日入厨下，洗手作羹汤。未谙姑食性，先遣小姑尝。”婚后三日，新娘子该露一手了。她做了道羹汤，也不知道合不合婆婆还有婆家其他女眷的口味，先请小姑子尝一尝吧。

新娘不断钻研厨艺，她知道，只有在厨房站稳了，才能赢得家人的尊敬和日后在家中的地位。

新娘很快成为厨房小能手，当然这时的她已晋级为孩子他娘。

想起新婚三日的忐忑，今天她要放大招——做一道“洗手蟹”，也叫“蟹生”，即凉拌生吃的螃蟹。

只看她将生蟹剁碎，用麻油先熬熟，放冷，草果、茴香、砂仁、花椒末、水姜、胡椒俱为末，再加葱、盐、醋共十味，入蟹内拌匀……她已驾轻就熟，一套动作行云流水。

家人齐齐点赞，有人提议，为什么不把做菜心得写下来呢。用现代的话说就是，要么做美食主妇，要么当美食主播。

于是就有了《吴氏中馈录》。

这是中国古代一个寻常女人的成长过程。她面目模糊却安详，围着锅台安静地表达自己，心思从指间到舌尖，不肯稍加敷衍，怎么做既好吃又养人，还能吃出新鲜的味道，因为有心思在，所以有见地在。

料理折射南宋百姓生活

《吴氏中馈录》分脯鲊、制蔬、甜食三部分，菜谱计70余款，采用炙、腌、炒、煮、焙、蒸、酱、醉、晒等十多种烹饪方法，都是当时地道的家常菜。名震江湖的金华酥饼，始见于哪里？甜食一词最早出现在哪？酱油一词最早出现在哪？粽子是甜的还是咸的？想做川菜没有辣椒怎么办？想吃甜点怎么做？《吴氏中馈录》都会告诉你。

没有滤镜、没有包装、没有高级厨具，只是详细地告诉你这道菜的每个步骤，字句简明，配方精准到“炒盐三两、茴香一钱”，与南宋晚期林洪的《山家清供》完全两种风格。林洪毕竟是正儿八经的文人，通篇穿插文学掌故和私人感受，尤其爱给平常的食物冠上别致也略显矫情的美名，什么“碧涧羹”“脆琅玕”等等。而《吴氏中馈录》就朴实多了，毫无装饰，取名原则遵守“原料”加“做法”，比如蒸鲥鱼，就是清蒸一条鲥鱼，糟茄子，十有八九是酒糟腌渍的茄瓜。

了解一个城市，要去菜市场;了解一个朝代，就要去看这个时代的菜肴。饮食是进入另一个世界的很好的媒介。不用梦回大宋了，不烦读程朱，只要下厨房，照着吴氏的菜谱，你就获得沉浸式体验，体验到宋朝市井文化之繁荣，以及普通百姓家的日常生活格调。食，不简简单单是一个菜，而是一种文化的传承，因着这些食物，因着这种中国味道，与历史、与祖先有了穿越般的勾连，你能感觉到味道传承中的血脉相通。

那盘“蟹生”至今仍活在百姓的餐桌上，蒸鲥鱼不去鳞的做法也被江浙厨师所遵循，那些腌渍手法已是浦江家庭主妇的必备技能。

如果有心，可以把《吴氏中馈录》里的70道菜还原一遍，那将会是一种怎样的体验呢？

（图片提供：视觉中国）

A Cook Book by Woman of Southern Song Dynasty

By Xi Chuang

was authored by a woman surnamed Wu who lived in Jinhua about 800 years ago in the Southern Song Dynasty （1127-1279）. In traditional Chinese culture， women were housekeepers and had a say in family affairs. There were many educated women in the Southern Song Dynasty. They wrote poems and they wrote books and many of them were excellent cooks. According to ancient books， a nun in the Southern Song made a cold dish composed of various ingredients and the cold dish was made into a replica of a painting by Wang Wei， a famed Tang poet. The stunt dish was considered a masterpiece and the nuns name Fanzheng comes down in history. Sister-in-Law Songs Fish Soup， an 800-year-old delicacy in Hangzhou cuisine， still enjoys its legendary popularity today. Tourists come to Hangzhou and one of the must-eat local delicacies is this soup. The recipe was invented by a woman.  is a perfect example of what these women of the Southern Song accomplished.

There is little known about this wonder woman surnamed Wu. In the 1980s， someone assumed she was from Pujiang， a county in Jinhua in central Zhejiang Province. The woman was by no means a chef in the imperial kitchen. Nor was she a hired chef working at a governors residence. She was a woman of an ordinary house. Her recipe book isnt the earliest cookbook in history. Cui Hao， a scholar in the Northern Wei （386-534）， wrote a cookbook that recorded his mothers recipes.  is the first of its kind written by a woman in Chinese history. It looks like a copy of a notebook without a foreword or afterword. One could imagine how the book was written. The cook herself didnt want to write such a cookbook. She just worked in the kitchen. Then gradually she became well known in her husbands family and then the fame spread among relatives and friends. Then one day someone suggested these recipes should be written out. Gradually， recipes accumulated and a book took form. Then copies were made and loved and passed on. And now we know there was such a wonder woman who cooked and created so many recipes about 800 years ago in Jinhua.

has about 70 recipes in three categories： meat and fish， vegetables， and desserts. More than 10 cooking and processing methods are recorded. All the recipes were common dishes back then.

The cookbook is pragmatic， straightforward and useful. Instructions in the recipes are accurate and clear and simple. The names of these recipes are straightforward. The composition of these recipe names follows two essential rules： how a dish is cooked and what is in the dish. For example， steamed hilsa herring， or wine-pickled eggplant.  is written in a style in sharp contrast with some cookbooks by scholar foodies in the Southern Song Dynasty. Some highly educated gourmets loved give highly fancy names to recipes. Reading the names of these recipes， a reader of today would often have the slightest idea of what the dish is and how it is cooked.

is more than a kitchen guide for a chef. The historical record gives people of today a glimpse into a lifestyle in a rural county capital about 800 years ago. From the book， we can know that some cooking skills are very much alive today. For example， chefs in Zhejiang steam hilsa herring without removing scales and many women in Pujiang are skillful cooks who process meat and fish in salt or soybean sauce in the traditional ways recorded in .