从20世纪月份牌看中国女性泳装服饰美学及影响

王巧 李正

摘要： 月份牌是20世纪上半叶国内社会生活的缩影，它的兴衰与社会发展息息相关，成为人们研究彼时经济、政治、商业、文化、艺术的重要载体。文章以月份牌中的女性泳装服饰为研究对象，审视月份牌画所承载的物质文化与流行文化的关系。通过文献研究、图像学分析、设计还原相结合的研究方法，探析20世纪月份牌的时代特色及中国女性泳装的缘起背景。重点论述上海游泳运动兴起对泳装服饰的影响，以设计学视角关注月份牌中泳装服饰的形色之美、纹样之美、搭配饰物之美，研究审美观念转变的根本原因。总结月份牌对中国女性泳装形制美学形成的促进与载体作用，解析其独特的搭配美学特征，力求为文化自信、服饰自信道路下的中国泳装服饰设计变革提供思考。

关键词： 20世纪月份牌;中国女性;泳装服饰;美学;设计学

中图分类号： TS941.12

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 10017003（2021）01010608

引用页码： 011204

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.01.016（篇序）

The influence and aesthetics of Chinese womens swimwear from the calendar of the 20th century

WANG Qiao， LI Zheng

（School of Art， Soochow University， Suzhou 215123， China）

Abstract：

The calendar is an epitome of domestic social life in the first half of the 20th century. Its rise and fall were closely related to social development. It was an important carrier for people to study the economy， politics， commerce， culture and art at that time. This paper takes the womens swimsuit in the calendar as the research object， and examines the relationship between the material culture and popular culture contained in the calendar paintings. Through the combination of literature research， image analysis and design restoration， this paper analyzes the era characteristics of the calendar in the 20th century， the origin and background of Chinese womens swimsuit. It focuses on the influence of the rise of Shanghai Swimming Sports on the swimsuit clothing. From the perspective of design， the paper pays attention to the beauty of shape and color， patterns and accessories of swimsuits in the calendar， and studies the root cause for the change of aesthetic idea. Finally， this paper summarizes the promotion and carrier effect of calendar on the formation of structure aesthetics of Chinese womens swimsuit， analyzes its unique matching aesthetic characteristics， and strives to provide thinking for the reform of Chinese swimsuit design under the road of cultural confidence and clothing confidence.

Key words：

calendar of the 20th century; Chinese women; swimsuit; aesthetics; design science

月份牌發祥于近现代商业最发达、华洋杂处的上海，是中国传统年画中的一个分支，被誉为浮世中一幕真实的幻影。根据中国著名的年画研究家王树村先生的考证，“月份牌”一词，最早出现于清代光绪二十二年（公元1896年）[1]。月份牌由人物、衣饰、场景、边框、广告字、商品、年历等内容构成，广告的商品多是香烟、电池、百货、肥料、药品、酒类、火油等生活类物品。美女是月份牌画的经典题材及标志特征，它运用了西方写实技法与中国绘画相结合，形貌勾勒准确且富有立体感，形成了中国20世纪上半叶的标志性符号。……