图像学在粤北瑶族服饰纹样分析中的运用

胡小平 王明仪 周晓晗 门德来

摘要： 近年来，随着对瑶族文化关注力度的加强，粤北瑶族服饰的研究也已成为当代民族保护的重要话题之一。粤北瑶绣纹样是粤北瑶族民族服饰的重要组成部分，其几何化构形特征及艳丽的色彩别具一格。为了更加深刻地理解其民族文化，文章从多维角度对粤北瑶绣纹样进行深入解析，采用跨学科的方法，以图像学的视角，辅以文献研究与田野调查法，对纹样特征、来源原因及象征意义进行重新梳理与分析。研究表明，粤北瑶族刺绣纹样在颜色选择、形态来源、几何化处理方面都与粤北瑶族生产生活条件密切相关，从中可了解粤北瑶族人民的生活习俗状态、崇尚巫信仰观念和独特的民族性格。通过图像学对粤北瑶族服饰形式的探索和瑶族文化的分析，为探究少数民族文化提供了新视角。

关键词： 图像学;粤北瑶族;服饰纹样;排瑶;过山瑶

中图分类号： TS941.11;J523.1

文献标志码： B

文章编号： 10017003（2021）01012307

引用页码： 011301

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.01.018（篇序）

The application of imageology in the analysis of Yao nationalitys costume patterns in north Guangdong

HU Xiaoping， WANG Mingyi， ZHOU Xiaoyu， MEN Delai

（School of Design， South China University of Technology， Guangzhou 510006， China）

Abstract：

In recent years， with the strengthening of the attention to Yao culture， the study of Yao costumes in northern Guangdong has also become a significant topic of contemporary ethnic protection. The Yao embroidery pattern in northern Guangdong is an important part of the ethnic costumes of the Yao ethnic group in northern Guangdong. Its geometrical configuration features and gorgeous colors are unique. In order to have a deeper understanding of its national culture， this paper analyzes the patterns of Yao embroidery in northern Guangdong from a multi-dimensional perspective profoundly， and adopts such methods as interdisciplinary approach， literature review and field survey to comb and analyze the characteristics， sources and symbolic meanings of the patterns from the perspective of iconology. The research shows that the color selection， shape source and geometric treatment of the Yao embroidery patterns in northern Guangdong are closely related to the production and living conditions of the Yao people in northern Guangdong. From this， we can understand the living customs， the worship of witchcraft and the unique national character of the Yao people in northern Guangdong. The exploration of the clothing styles of the Yao ethnic group in northern Guangdong and the analysis of the Yao ethnic culture through iconography provide a new perspective for exploring ethnic minority culture.

Key words：

iconography; Yao nationality in northern Guangdong; pattern of clothing; Pai Yao; Guo Shan Yao

粤北瑶族主要为排瑶和过山瑶，两者同属于瑶族三大主要支系中的盘瑶支。粤北瑶族历史悠久，自隋唐以来便有记载。粤北瑶族居住在岭南丘陵密布的环境中，文化相对独立，没有文字，故其民族文化的传承与发展只能依赖语言进行世代传承，所以粤北瑶族服饰中刺绣纹样蕴含丰富的民族文化信息，可视为展现其文化最为重要，且最有鲜明的民族特色的部分。

國内外学者对粤北瑶族服饰的研究……