柿黑染与莨纱绸泥染对比研究

杨建军 崔岩

摘要： 柿黑染与莨纱绸泥染分别是日本、中国精湛的传统天然染色技艺，文化内涵丰富，发展潜力巨大。文章在前人研究基础上，结合实地调研和体验，采用对比研究法对柿黑染和莨纱绸泥染的染料与染色工艺进行梳理分析。实践发现，柿黑染与莨纱绸泥染具有“异曲同工”之妙。研究认为，单宁显色是“同工”共性形成之源，材料等差异是“异曲”个性显现之本。由于二者自然属性突出，生态特征显著，艺术魅力强劲，在现今仍然具有广阔的开发前景。

关键词： 柿漆;黑染;莨纱绸;泥染;单宁;传统技艺

Abstract： Persimmon black dyeing and gambiered Guangdong silk mud dyeing are exquisite traditional natural dyeing techniques in Japan and China respectively， with rich cultural connotation and great development potential. On the basis of previous studies and in combination with field investigation and experience， the dyes and dyeing processes of persimmon black dyeing and Gambiered Guangdong silk mud dyeing are reviewed and analyzed using the comparative research method. It is found that the persimmon black dyeing and Gambiered Guangdong silk mud dyeing can yield equally satisfactory results in spite of difference in approaches. The results show that tannin color development is responsible for equally satisfactory results， and the difference in materials for the difference in approaches. Because of their outstanding natural attributes， ecological characteristics and great artistic attraction， they still have broad development prospects today.

Key words： persimmon lacquer; black dye; Gambiered Guangdong silk; mud dye; tannin; traditional techniques

柿（學名Diospyros Kaki L.f）分布广泛，根据成熟果实的甜涩程度分为甜柿和涩柿两大类[1]。涩柿青果可以制作柿漆，因其具有很强的拒水、防腐和增韧功效，自古就用于浸渍渔网、涂刷木料和染纸做伞制扇、染布缝衣缀帘等。柿漆除了染制棕褐色，还可以通过铁浆媒染而染制黑色，一般称为柿黑染，日本流行甚广。中国广东佛山及周边地区出产的莨纱绸，俗称香云纱，是一种用薯莨植物块茎汁液染制的丝织物，轻薄挺爽、柔润平整，在中国南方温湿气候地带及东南亚备受欢迎[2]，其利用河泥的独特泥染工艺，与柿黑染的铁浆媒染原理相通、异曲同工。对于柿黑染，日本寺田昌道[3]结合型染等进行了应用研究，笔者[4]也曾对其进行过浸染实践研究。对于莨纱绸，研究成果更为丰富，既有侧重史料的起源考证研究[5]，又有侧重结构与性能的科学研究[6]，还有侧重工艺与文化推广的探讨研究[7]，以及侧重艺术表现与传承的发展研究[8]，近年多聚焦设计应用的创新研究[9-12]。……