亚文化社群视角下时尚杂志的创新之路

蔡骐 文芊芊

[摘 要] 时尚杂志自诞生以来就以精英阶层为主要读者，通过优质的内容和精美的图片为他们创造愉悦的阅读体验和审美享受。然而，随着新媒介技术的发展，以及掌握新媒介技术的青少年群体的壮大，时尚杂志开始由最初的高端领域向大众化转变，并在传播方式和文本内容上进行创新。在传播方式上，时尚杂志尝试以社交媒体为纽带建构亚文化社群；在文本内容上，时尚杂志彰显出更年轻、个性、多元与自由的亚文化风格。只是，繁荣背后总有乱象，面对时尚杂志在创新中暴露出的诸多问题，我们必须及时采取相应的对策。

[关键词] 时尚杂志 新媒介技术 创新 亚文化社群 风格

[中图分类号] G237 [文献标识码] A [文章编号] 1009-5853 （2018） 04-0052-05

[Abstract] Since its birth，fashion magazines have taken the elite classes as their main readers，creating pleasant reading experience and aesthetic enjoyment for them through high quality content and exquisite pictures. However，with the development of the new media technology and the growth of the young people who have mastered this technology，fashion magazines began to change from the original high-end field to the popular，and innovated in the way of communication and text content. In the way of communication，fashion magazines try to construct a sub-cultural community with social media as a link. In the text content，fashion magazine shows a younger and more individualized sub-cultural style with diversity and freedom. However，there is always chaos behind prosperity. In facing problems exposed from the innovation of fashion magazines，corresponding countermeasures should be taken in time.

[Key words] Fashion magazine New media technology Innovation Subculture society Style

时尚杂志面对新媒体的转型之路一直荆棘密布。近年来，《伊周Femina》《瑞丽时尚先锋》《悦己SELF》等一大批时尚杂志相继为自己辉煌的生涯画上了句号。然而，当部分时尚杂志在新媒体的洪流中兵败如山倒之时，却也有如《Vogue服饰与美容》《时尚芭莎》这类时尚杂志，凭借敏锐的触觉，在新媒介环境中风生水起，它们推出自己的网站、App、官方微博与微信公众号，获得了广大青年群体的青睐。毫无疑问，它们正试图翻开一个与新媒体结合的时代篇章，来引领一场更年轻、更个性、更有趣的亚文化风潮。那么，在时尚杂志寻求新出路的背后，它究竟面临怎样的困境与机遇？它又分别在传播方式和文本内容上进行了怎样的创新？面对与创新性探索相伴而生的诸多问题，时尚杂志应该采取怎样的对策，以实现自身进一步的发展？……