AHP-灰色关联汉服综合评价体系研究

摘要： 针对汉服的综合评价问题，文章运用层次分析法从美观性、舒适性、经济性、文化性、艺术性、实用性等评价角度建立了汉服的综合评价体系，并采用灰色关联分析法对其中8款汉服进行了综合评价。评价结果表明：齐腰襦裙因为款式多样、色彩丰富、活动便捷的特点服用性能最优;袄裙因为较强的可搭配性与精美的工艺等特点性能也较优，高腰襦裙因为易加工、结构简单、穿搭便捷的特点紧随其后;曲裾和圆领袍服因为独特的款式和审美气质，两者服用性能相当;短打便于活动，但因其礼仪文化等内在因素，在8种汉服中综合评价结果较差。这一评价结果与客观事实符合性较好，故文章提出的汉服综合评价方法具有典型性和可行性，基于多维设计因子的AHP-灰色关联汉服评价方法是一种实用性很强的方法，对汉服的设计与营销具有现实指导意义。

关键词： AHP-灰色关联分析法;层次分析法;多维设计因子;汉服;评价方法;服用性能;礼仪文化

中图分类号： TS941.2

文献标志码： A

文章编号： 1001-7003（2021）05-0053-09

引用页码： 051109

DOI： 10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2021.05.009（篇序）

Abstract： Focused on the comprehensive evaluation of Hanfu， a comprehensive evaluation system for Hanfu was established using Analytic Hierarchy Process from the perspectives of aesthetics， comfort， economy， culture， artistry， and practicability. Eight kinds of Hanfu were evaluated by this means. The results showed that the waist jacket skirt has the optimal wearing performance due to its diverse styles， plentiful colors and convenient for activities. Ming-made Aoquns performances are good because of its strong suitability， artistry and delicate craft， followed by high-waist jacket skirt because of easy processing and simple structure， and easy for wearing. Because of the unique style and aesthetic temperament， the performance of Quju and round neck robes are equivalent. Although Duanda is convenient for activities， its comprehensive evaluation results are poor among the eight kinds of Hanfu due to its internal factors such as etiquette and culture. The evaluation result accords well with objective facts. Therefore， the comprehensive evaluation method of Hanfu based on AHP-grey relational analysis method proposed in this paper with strong practicability and application value is of practical guiding significance for the design and marketing of Hanfu.

Key words： AHP-grey relational analysis method; analytic hierarchy process; design factor; Hanfu; evaluation method; wearability; etiquette culture

2003年11月22日当代汉服在河南郑州的街头出现，被媒体广泛报道。此时的汉服对于绝大多数人而言，是一种不合时宜的、戏剧化的表演性服饰。这一时期的汉服多为爱好者根据古籍图画、出土服装实物等进行模仿制作，服饰较为粗糙、缺乏美感。由于服装缺乏完整的体系与形制规范，在设计与销售中存在大量爭议。“正版”与“山寨”、传统文化与现代时尚、服装成本与服装销量等现实问题使得汉服长期以来囿于“小众”服饰，没有形成完整的服饰商业环境。……